Kalle shirt – Full bust adjustment

Kalle shirt by Closet Case Patterns

March has already gone, and so another project for #sewmystyle2018 is completed. This time the challenge was to make a shirt, tunic or a dress based on Kalle shirt/dress pattern. This pattern is so versatile and you can mix and match different styles, such as pop-over, standard or hidden placket, band or standard collar, inverted or box pleat.

It was my first time using a pattern by Closet Case Patterns Company, however I was familiar with the brand, as I read many, many reviews of their lovely patters before. Same as last month, I have purchased the PDF pattern and glued it all together. I am getting better at it šŸ™‚

Based on my bust measurement I decided to go with a size 16 and make a view A, which is a cropped top version, which I had made with a pop-over placket, standard collar and a inverted pleat. You can see a step-by-step tutorial on how to make your first pop-over placket in my previous post. I absolutely love this type of shirts, so was a little upset when once again, something was not right for me. Obviously, it is nothing wrong with the pattern itself, as you can read many reviews online from other people who had no fitting problems….lucky !!!!

Close Case Patterns instruction booklet is clear and easy to follow. I only had a little hiccup when doing a “burrito” method, so it would be nice if photos instead of drawings were inserted. Saying that, Close Case blog came very handy whenever i was in doubt. They do great sew-alongĀ for their patterns.

Pattern adjustments




As you can see my first Kalle need some work to fit me better…. side seams are shifting forward and the whole front panel is lifting up. The other problem I have noticed is that the shoulder seams are way back…

I was a little lost here, as the style of this shirt is loose with not darts to shape, so I had to ask for an advice on how to fix the problems.

IĀ  had determined that I need a full bust adjustment (thanks to amazingĀ Charlotte Wills, Chris Griffin,Ā Geraldine Cooper,Ā Isa Ribeiro,Ā Katie Lee who kindly took their time to point me it the right direction). By the way….Sew my style 2018 Facebook group is AMAZING! So encouraging and positive bunch of people šŸ™‚

How do you do full bust adjustment with no darts??????

This is how!!!!..it is easy….hihihi

Copy front piece without seam allowance, with all necessary notches and markings.


Next, find your apex point-I placed the pattern on my chest and roughly marked the highest bust point. I do not think you have to be very precise here….but correct me if I am wrong.

Then, draw 5 lines:

1.Extended side seam through the sleeve

2. From the apex point parallel line to center front

3.From the apex point towards sleeve notch

4.From the apex point towards the bottom of the sleeve

5. horizontal line around 5 cm away from the hem line

Now, cut off the sleeve and put it aside….we will reattach it later.

Cut through lines 2,3 and 4 stopping just before the side seam.


Depending on the size of your bust, the amount you spread will vary,I added 1,5 cm.

You have a couple of options now depending on how you spread it:

– you can add length to front piece ( this is what I have done, by cutting through line 5 and spreading it as much as needed – 5 cms) or you can leave the hem line the same if you are happy with the length.

– you can add width to front piece ( again, this is what I have done), just ensure you spread line 2 evenly. Do not worry about overlapping pieces.
20180307_211225[1]– If you are happy with the width, then you can spread line 2 away around apex point, but joining the points back at the hem line. Hope that I did not confuse you hihihi


Once you added desired measurements then it is time to put this piece into one again;)

Join the sleeve piece and fill it in with a spare piece of paper.


Do the same for the rest of the front piece and re-draw a hem line. I took the original piece and copied the shape of hem, but you have the opportunity to shape it as you wish. Add seam allowance and you are ready to go…or you can copy it to a new piece of paper if you are a control freak like me hihihi20180308_185352[1]

There are other minor pattern adjustments that I have done:

-I had drafted a new front facing

-I have moved shoulder seam towards the front by 2 cm, simply cut 2 cm from the shoulder front seam and attach it to the shoulder back seam. By doing this I had to remember to move collar stand notch to much new shoulder seam line and move sleeve cuff seam to the front too.


Final thoughts

I am obsessed with this pattern, and already in the middle of doing a dress version with a pop-over placket. Now that I have perfected the fit I am sure I will come back to this pattern on many occasions.

What style did you choose??

Monika xxx

~onto a next make~


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