Ski trousers -Lander pants by True Bias


Hello my crafty friends! Hope you are doing well with all that craziness that is happening right now.

Worry aside…I want to show you how I transferred a Lander pants by True Bias into a ski trousers that I made for my last Xmas trip to Poland.In my last post I explained in more details how I’ve made a welt pockets with a zipper, but today I want to show you my make in all its glory.I had previously used this pattern to make a Lander shorts, so had an idea of what adjustments I need to make this time.

Pattern adjustments

I cut out size 16 and the first adjustment was to decrease the length of crotch rise by about 2.5 cm. I prefer when they sit just below my natural waistline so when I sit it does not dig into my skin.I also slightly changed the curve on the front crotch line making it less prominent.Because my trouser ends below the waist I opted to draft a new curved waistband.  I could have used the original pattern piece,  but with my big bum I realized that the waistband often sticks out at the back. The option to use a curved waistband makes it fit my body better.Other than that I had used an ankle length of the pattern, because I’m short and folded the hem by 2 cm.

Details and features

You know that I really like to do pattern hacks, but this time it was not as much as a hack but more of an added features.Because I was making this pair of trousers to be used as a ski pants I wanted to add some zipped pockets….you know, so if I fall down no snow would get into the pocket and ruin my phone or money. I really like the look of a welt pocket and decided that it would make the trousers look interesting (the welt pocket with a zipper tutorial here). Of course I had to experiment a little with a style and placement so I thought it would me fun to add one pocket above my knee….no reason really, just a design feature.  But it came quiet handy at the end as I kept me ski pass there.If I’m not mistaken there is a zipper fly add on to Lander pants pattern as the original has the button fly instead. I did not buy it because I knew how to do it without it.
The reason why I chose to use Lander Pants pattern to make a Ski trousers was simply because I needed a pattern with wide pant leg. Wide enough to sit above a massive ski shoes. This has worked perfectly especially because I made the hem elasticated and used elastic stoppers to be able to adjust it depending on which shoe I’m wearing…none likes snow inside of their shoes….brrrrr As a last minute decision I used an old ribbon to make a belt loops. I tried making belt loops from the fabric but it was to thick and bulky. My machine was not able to cope with all the layers of fabric. It is a silly little detail that no-one really see because I usually wear a big jumper over it , but it does the job so I’m happy with it.I also opted to use hook and eye hardware instead of making buttonholes on the waistband, because I knew I would get frustrated with my machine .

Fabric choice

It took me ages to find suitable fabric for Ski trousers.  It had to be waterproof and keep me warm at the same time.After awhile I came across a waterproof Technical sports softshell fabric with a fleece backing and thermoplastic climate membrane from UK Fabrics Online for £12.99 a meter. I had never worked with this type of material before, but decided to try it out.I had ordered 2 meters and after few days had it delivered to my doorstep.The fabric has a slippery surface on one side and a fleece on the other side. My first action was to test if it really is a waterproof as it states…..and it was. I took the fabric to the sink and pour some water onto a slippery side. The water just sat there without going through the fabric…Great news! The fleece side is nice and fluffy and very nice on the skin, so I knew instantly that this is going to work as I had intended.

Sewing the pattern

Because this wasn’t my first time sewing Lander pants pattern I already knew what to expect. Obviously with adding welt pockets and elastic hem I had added to the workload, but overall the pattern is not that complicated and the instruction booklet clearly explain each step of construction.It took me 5 hours and 30 minutes to finish this make, and I did not have any difficulty sewing this fabric. The only minor issue here was pressing. Because of the nature and fiber content of this fabric (90 % pes, 4% spandex, 5% membrane) the iron has to be on a very low heat setting which does not press seams well.

Final thoughts

This was an interesting and fun project which allowed me to be more creative.I really like the project turned out and it was perfect during the trip. It kept my dry and warm without the need of wearing a thermal tights underneath. I would really like to make myself a little rain jacket out of this fabric next.

Have you ever sewn with waterproof fabric? What did you make?

Monika xxx

Make your first welt pocket with a zipper

Hi my crafty friends! Hope you are doing well!

Few months ago I had made myself a pair of ski trousers for my trip to Poland and used the Lander pants pattern by True Bias because I thought it’s wide leg design would be perfect to wear over ski boots. Then I though it would be even nicer to include some welt pockets with a zipper to securely hold a phone or some spare change and today I will share with you exactly how I’ve done it.

Drafting the pocket

On the front pattern piece I had marked the angle and the placement of the pocket opening based on the zipper I was going to use. The zippers are 17 cm long and I purchase them on eBay. I wanted my welt to be 1.5 cm wide so I drew the shape onto the pattern to see how it would look like.

Next, I simply drafted a pocket bag ensuring that it would be big enough for my hand. The pocket is made out of two pieces: pocket facing (usually cut out of the main fabric) and smaller pocket lining (can be a different fabric, because it is not visible on the outside), however I had used the same fabric for my pockets because I wanted a cosy and warm fleece pockets.

Pocket facing is 1.5 cm (or the width of your welt) longer in comparison to pocket facing to ensure that once sewn, both pieces are in line with each other.


To draft a pocket welt I copied rectangle that was marked on the front pattern piece and add 1 cm seam allowance on both short ends and one long side – cut it on fold x 1 per pocket.

Sewing tutorial

Fold the pocket welt in half with wrong sides together and overlock  long raw edge.

20191205_110722Mark the pocket opening onto the right side of the fabric.

20191205_110356Mark 1 cm seam allowance on the pocket welt away from the overlocked edge.
Place it on top of marked pocket opening with right sides together, aligning the stitching lines.

20191205_112105Place the zipper facing down towards the fabric and stitch it together along the marked line- 1.5 cm away from the first stitch line ( or the width of your welt).

20191205_112815Both stitching lines should be straight and parallel to each other. This is important to ensure that the pocket looks neat once finished.

20191205_112834Next, snip the fabric between the stitching lines stopping about 1.5 cm at each end.

20191205_113141On both sides cut the fabric diagonally creating small triangles. Cut it as close as possible without snipping the thread.

20191205_113227Turn both, the zipper and the pocket welt over to the wrong side through the new opening. You can pin or baste the zipper and welt together to stop it from shifting before the next step.

20191205_113532.jpgMachine together: little triangle, zipper and pocket welt on both sides of the pocket opening. You should start and stop exactly at the same place as the long stitching lines started/ended, creating a perfect rectangle-as marked initially on the fabric.

20191205_114211Attach the zipper to the pocket welt using the first stitching line as a guideline (sorry if you cannot see the stitching line that the pen indicate).

20191205_114723This is how it looks from the right side.

20191205_114427Place pocket bag lining (smaller piece) with right side facing down aligning it with a overlocked welt edge ( I used a wrong side of the fabric as a right side because it had a nice and soft finish).
Pin it and attached it to pocket welt within 1 cm seam allowance.

20191205_115510Flip the pocket bag towards inside and press it.

20191205_120004Edge stitch along the long bottom side of the welt throughout all layers.

20191205_120335With right sides together, (again I used wrong side as a right side here) place and align (bigger) pocket facing on top of pocket lining. Pin and baste it in place along the welt and from the right side edge stitch the remaining 3 sides of the welt pocket opening.


20191205_121505Pin pocket lining and facing together and machine it using 1 cm seam allowance.
Overlock the entire pocket bag.


20191205_122243Give the pocket final press and repeat the steps if you making more pockets.


That is all for today! Enjoy the rest of the day.

See you next week.

Monika xxx