Stripy Bonnie blouse by Sew Over It – Pattern review

Hi sewing friend, in today’s post I will be sharing my thought on the newest pattern edition from Sew Over It. The moment I lay my eyes on the cover photo I had this instant urge to make one for myself.

Pattern

The pattern comes as a cropped blouse or a dress option that can be made with or without pleats on the front. The other main details are: concealed button placket, turn up sleeve cuffs and flat collar. The top is slightly looser and gathered into a waistband. and Bonnie dress features a gathered knee length skirt which is cinched in at the waist by an elastic.

Pattern alternations

With Sew Over It patterns I usually have to make some adjustments to improve the overall fit of the garment, so making a toile first was a necessity. I had put on some weight recently so had to cut out size 20 based on my bust and waist measurements. I ignored looking at hips measurements because the blouse should sit at the waist level. I made my first toile from cheap cotton fabric to check what alternation I would have to make to the pattern. I always find it very useful to take this also as an opportunity to practice and learn new techniques or just to check if the pattern instructions are clear and concise.

I established (top two photos) that I will need a number of adjustments to make this garment fit my body better. I would need to reduce shoulder seam and adjust armhole curve, plus a full bust adjustment is necessary because the front hem is raising substantially. Also the bust dart placement needs to be altered as it is too low.

I considered simply raising the bust dart first, but it would sit very close to an armhole seam, which I did not think would look nice and instead I chose to alter an angle of the dart, following by 2.5 cm FBA. This made the bodice even more boxy, hence my decision to size down to 18. Since my waist circumference falls closer to size 20 I also had to extend the waistband by 10 cm, which in turn meant that my bodice will net be as gathered as much. Next I decreased the shoulder seam by 1 cm and smoothed the armhole curves on both front and back pattern pieces. My last alternation was to shorten the sleeve length by 2 cm, because I felt it looked a little of balance and also would be more comfortable.

Fabric choice

I had purchased 2 meters of this beautiful lightly sheer viscose and poly blend fabric from myfabrics.co.uk for £7.45 per meter specially for this project. I really liked the color combination of white , black and blue and thought it would be easy to put together with other items from my wardrobe. The material is very delicate and shifts a lot, so I had used some spray starch to stabilize it more. I took my time (90 minutes) cutting out individual pattern pieces by laying the fabric on a cutting mat and using a rotary blade to allow for as little movement as possible. Even this was not enough and I still had some stripes that way a little bit off grain. Once the fabric was cut it was not as bad during sewing and pressing stage.

What I forgot to consider when choosing this fabric was that vertical pleats on the front would distort the fabric pattern. This is clearly visible here because the stripes are not symmetrical it was impossible to mirror match both left and right front pieces. This is something that I realized only after I stitched all pleats already, but it does not bother me and I consider it a design choice hihihi

Sewing the pattern

From the very beginning I wanted to make this blouse as neat and beautiful inside as it is on the outside and finishing all seams with a french seam was a clear winner here. Also choosing the right interfacing for this delicate fabric was very important. I needed something that was lightweight but with enough body to enforce the button placket. Lucky for me I have a number of different interfacing at home, because I always experiment with it to find out how it will affect and change the fabric. I must say I really love the hidden placket, but somehow missed that you supposed to put press studs on the beginning and at the end. Instead I simply made 6 buttonholes, and not 5 as instructed and placed the first and the last as close to the edge as possible. I am happy with the result, however it can be a little bit tricky to button up the top one.

I made this top in a total of 8 hours, giving as much attention to details as much as I could. I really like that there is some hand stitching involved, because it makes the process more thoughtful and professional looking finish.

Due to doing a full bust adjustment the width of the bust dart increased quiet a bit and it was very noticeable on this fabric, which made me unhappy to say the least! I never used a french seam on darts before so it did not crossed my mind, but I knew I had to do something to make this dart “disappear”. The easiest way for me was to make a fake french seam, because I was afraid to damage the fabric while unpicking those darts.It worked like a charm.

The pattern may look complicated, but in all honesty is not that difficult. To make hidden placket and pleats all you need is it to fold the fabric and stitch in specific places….very easy, but precision is a key here. One thing I found a little confusing while following the instruction on making the pleats is that the booklet tells you to fold the fabric right sides together and stitch, but the illustration show that wrong sides are together….go with an illustration here, otherwise you will end up with plackets on the inside of your garment. If you look closely you can see on my first toile left side is done as per instruction and right side per illustration.

Final thoughts

This is a lovely pattern with lots of interesting details, but I am not sure if the cropped version suits my body type. I like it and will definitely find a way to style and wear it, but if I make another version I will omit the waistband and extend the bodice to reach hip level…..saying that you will see very soon a dress version without pleats, that I will make in October as part of a #SwapShareSew challenge. More on that later!

~What do you think about Bonnie pattern?~

Monika xxx

Free pattern review – Hello Sailor top by Tribe patterns

Hello my sewing friends!

Do you ever search for free PDF patterns online?…If the answer is yes…have you stumbled upon The Fold Line website before??? Well….I did and it was like finding a treasure chest! The site is run by Kate and Rachel who are doing a wonderful job bringing sewing community together. This is the best place if you are looking for a specific pattern or planning a multi purchase from different designers and you do not particularly feel like wasting time and doing individual buys from many sites. Guess what??? You can also find a HUGE collection of FREE patterns there!!!! yeahhhhh That is how I found the Hello Sailor Top! To be able to receive the pattern you will need to sign up to The Fold Line newsletter where you will be given a download link to this free PDF pattern.

Photo: https://thefoldline.com/sewing-patterns/hello-sailor-top-free/

The Pattern

Hello Sailor Top by Tribe Patterns is a simple boxy style sleeveless top with a bias binding neckline and armholes finish. It’s most eye catching detail is the cut out on the back and unusual bust dart placement starting at the armhole.

It is designed for a light weight fabric such as: cotton lawn, shirting and rayon.

The pattern takes only few minutes to assemble because there are less than 20 pages and the instruction booklet is pretty clear which is always a bonus.

I cut out size 20 based on my bust measurements and did not make any pattern adjustments.

Fabric choice

The red binding seen on a cover photo of this pattern was my main reason why I really wanted to make this top! I had in my stash 1 meter of red viscose fabric that I bought last year from Stoff and Stil but it was not enough for what I had in mind that time…so why not transform it into some bias cut tape??? Great idea Monika! Now I had to find a perfect fabric to go with my red bias binding… I wanted straight away that a solid color is the way to go this time, so after careful consideration (looking through my stash) I decided that I need a white top in my life, but sadly I did not have anything suitable…Sad face ;), so I went onto a Minerva Craft website and purchased 2 meters of white plain viscose for £4.99 a meter.

Sewing the pattern

This top was super fun to make from start to finish and the only more difficult part was attaching all that bias binding to neckline and armhole edges. I am saying difficult purely because it can be a bit fiddly when working with self made bias tape from more drapey fabric like viscose.

It took me 15 minutes to cut out the fabric, as the bias tape was ready at this point and 3 hours and 40 minutes to make the top. I wanted to be very precise and neat with a top stitching so hand basted the binding beforehand. This extended the sewing time, but the result is worth it! The top hangs nicely over my bust and the final length is just the way I like it, so it could be a little short for someone with average and tall height. I used slightly over one meter to make my top, excluding the bias tape and the pattern recommends about 1.4 meter.

I liked the simplicity of this pattern so much that decided to make another version form Liberty fabric my partner got me for my birthday in April.

The Liberty fabric is so beautiful so it was waiting in my stash basket for the perfect pattern! I wanted a simple pattern without any lines as this fabric is very busy and any details would be lost. This time I thought it would be nice to have a plain bias binding, so I made it out of some off white cotton lawn to complement the main fabric.

This time I made a minor pattern adjustment, by taking 7 mm off at the center back, because it realized it gapes a little while wearing my white cami. It is nothing to worry about there because the fabric drapes, but this Liberty cotton has more structure and it would be more noticeable. It was so much easier to sew with and it took me less time because i did not have to hand baste the bias tape.

Final thoughts

This is a fantastic pattern, that will be used throughout the year! simple to style with skirts and trousers and layer with cardigan or blazer. There are small slits at the side seams, which would be easy to transform it into a stepped hem….something I consider making next! Overall it is a great pattern for any beginner sewist or anyone looking for a quick fix! I am wondering now if Tribe patterns have other patterns that are as wonderful as this one???

~Let me know if you came across any!~

Monika xxx