Dreamy Ogden Cami with front button placket

Hi lovelies! As you may know by now, I love to hack and reuse patterns that I like and am comfortable in. One of my all time favorites is the one and only Ogden Cami by True Bias which is great for summer, but also why not wear it in winter with some chunky jumper on? Who said it is weather inappropriate???

Today I want to share with you how easy is to add a button placket and give your Cami a little upgrade.

Button placket hack

First, you must decide which button you will use as this determine the width of the placket extension. Do not worry about the right color at this point. The most important aspect here is the size of the button you will be using…..You can always buy the right color later.

 

For this project I will be using a small buttons of 12mm in diameter.

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To begin, copy the front pattern piece with all necessary markings and notches but omit ON FOLD marking at the center front, as this will be cut as separates.

Once assembled the buttons will be placed on the center front as seen on the picture, so draw a line parallel to a center front 12 mm in width…..or the size of your button.

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Next, we need to add a facing part to our extension, which is twice the size of the button diameter. In my case it is 24mm.

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After that all you need to remember is to add some seam allowance.

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To finish drafting the neckline simply cut along the seam allowance line and fold it twice, first along the seam allowance line and then the facing….same way as it will be sewn.

Take your tracing wheel and extend the neckline curve on the placket.

Once the pattern is open again it will give you a clear shape of the neckline. Draw a lines along the dots, extend the hemline and your are done drafting your pattern.

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If you know how many buttons you will use it is easy at this stage to add a button holes markings to your pattern.

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If you made this pattern before, you will know that the interfacing for front and back is quite substantial in width, so I decided to reduce it.

First, I copied front facing piece with all notches and markings.

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Next, I draw a parallel lines 6cm away from original neckline and armhole curves.

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To make this new edge easy to overlock I smoothed the line a little.

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Cut it out remembering that the front piece is cut twice and not on fold.

I did exactly the same to the back facing piece, however this one is cut on fold as no changes had been made to the back piece.

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You can follow above steps if you rather have the button placket on the back too. Giving you an option to change the look a bit 😉

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I had used a fabric covered buttons because I think it looks really good on this fabric.

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And this is how the facing looks from inside.

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This Cami is my favorite so far, but it may change in the near future as I have many more hacks to try out….will keep you posted.

~Have a go at this simple pattern alternation and let me know what you think!~

Monika xxx

Maxi dress hack

Today I like to show you another hack that you can easily make using your favourite top pattern.

As the temperature in London finally is bearable again I have decided to make myself a simple maxi dress from a jersey fabric that I had in my stash. I had purchased this fabric a while ago and had 2 meters, which considering that I’m only 150cm I knew it was a perfect amount.

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I have used once again my trusted Agnes top pattern by Tilly and the buttons and marked the waist line. I like to have a separate pattern for each project to save time in the future, and copied the existing front and back bodice pattern pieces with all necessary notches and grain line marking, up to the waist line and included a 1.5 cm seam allowance.

When you are ready cut and sew the bodice as usual including side and shoulder seams, neck band and sleeves.

Measure the length of the skirt you require starting from waistline and add seam allowance. This is optional and it depends on your style,  but I took the entire width of the fabric to get as much volume while gathering. Stitch together along the salvage. This gives you one seam so it is up to you where you want to place it. Most desired placement would be centre back, however I opted to use it as style feature and created a slit in the front.

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Gathering jersey fabric can be a bit tricky so to make the process easier I recommend using an elastic. First measure your waist and take away about 2 cm, this is the length of the elastic you need to cut. Sew together the ends and divide it in 4 sections. Skirt part also needs to be divided in 4 equal sections. Now pin together the elastic to the skirt part matching each quarter. Using zigzag stitch sew it within seam allowance stretching the elastic to accommodate the excess of the fabric, but do not stretch the fabric.

Now all that needs to be done is attach it to the bodice and finish the hem as normal.

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You can make it sleeveless, play with variety of neck styles or lengths of the dress to create a different garment each time.

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~Enjoy your new maxi dress~

Monika xxx