How to sew a faux French seam on a bust dart

Hi sewing friends, you know that I like to share with you anything that I find useful, and today I will show you the process of sewing a bust dart with what I call a fake French seam. Why would you sew a fake French seam Monika if you can sew the real deal??? You may wonder! I tell you….because it never crossed my mind and after I was too scared! If you still confused you can check out my other blog post where I share my thoughts on making a Sew Over It Bonnie blouse.

In general I think French seams look beautiful and contrary to popular belief they do not take longer to do than your regular seam. Some may say that it is time consuming because you need to sew the same seam twice, but if you think about it…you do it anyway! Unless you are keeping your seam allowance raw, which is not the best idea ( not including knit fabrics here). Normally you would stitch your fabric pieces together following with other stitch to overcast the seam, by sewing a zig zag stitch or using an overlocker to stop fabric edges from fraying….so you see, you ARE sewing the seam twice! Why not make it more beautiful by finishing it with a French seam???? Anyway….I’m drifting away from what I want to show you.


Faux French seam

Once you stitch your dart in a regular way, like me, you may find that your fabric is a little sheer and your bust dart looks unappealing or you simply want to reduce the size of the bust dart because you don’t want to much bulk. To create a faux French seam on any dart draw a parallel line about 2-3 cm away from the stitching.

Don’t be afraid and cut the excess fabric on the marked line.

Now fold the raw edges inside the dart and pin or baste in place.

Using a slip stitch close the dart seam and press.

That is it! You created your faux French seam!


~Hope this little trick will help you make these bust darts less visible on the outside and more beautiful on the inside!~

Monika xxx

Forbidden fruit pot holders- sewing tutorial

In the previous post I showed you how to draft a pattern for this deliciously looking pot holders. Now it is a time to grab a tea or coffee and make one or two! Let’s dive in!

Sewing tutorial

Cut out all your pattern pieces as mentioned in the latest post.

Take heat resistant fabric and sandwich it between the main body pieces. Quilt it all over in desired lines or you can follow mine design. I took one piece of main body and using straight lines attached it to the heat resistant fabric following with sewing the other main piece to the other side quilting in straight lines that goes from side to side.

My pot holders are very colourful, so I picked the darkest color to be the base in case it gets dirty. Whenever you work with some kind of heat resistant material you need to remember that the shiny side of the fabric is the one that blocks the heat from getting in contact with your body, so make sure to always place facing away from your skin.

Once the main body is quilted you can take all four pocket pieces (mine are in two different colors) and using a basting stitch sew it around the edges within your seam allowance. If you need to stabilize it more do not be afraid to use some interfacing.

Using bias binding finish only the straight edge.

To make it easier do it in two steps, first unfold the tape and place it on top of the pocket stitching along the crease line. Next fold it over the to the other side ensuring the first stitch line is covered and top-stitch in place.

Place both pockets on top of the main body piece and hold it in place using pins. Sew around the edge with a long basting stitch.

Assembly your tab and leaf pieces next.

For my leaf I placed the leaf pattern pieces wrong sides together and using zig zag stitch sewn it together .

For the tab I folded it in half with right sides together, stitched it and using a safety pin turned the fabric inside out.

Place one end of a tab between pockets and baste it in place. Next following the same steps use bias binding to finish around the border.

For a clean finish start sewing the bias tape by folding about 1 cm inside and stitch around the first crease line finishing on top of the first fold.

Turn the bias tape over to the back and tuck the other end of a tab underneath. Pin or hand baste to stop it from shifting and sew it with straight stitch in a ditch.

Pin one leaf in a preferred position and either stitch it on top of the zig zag or hand sew it to the main body.

Tadaaahhh, you are done with your make! Are we making a pie next???

~do you prefer to use oven gloves or pot holders while cookig/baking?~

Monika xxx