Sewing in-seam pocket vol.1

Finally I have started working on my McCall’s jacket. It is a first time that I am making a fully lined jacket and I am scared that will mess it up.

The pattern includes in-seam pockets, which I am not confident of making. I have been researching a lot to find the best technique and discovered that there are so many ways of sewing an in-seam pockets, so I have decided to document each method that I will come across and see which one I like the most and which one gives the cleanest results.

In-seam pocket tutorial

Below is a step by step method that I have used following the pattern instructions.

Before you start make sure you have cut all pocket pieces (4 in total if you doing two pockets), your front panel pieces and your back panel pieces. Do not forget to transfer all necessary markings such as notches indicating a pocket opening (you can see a purple dot on my fabric). This method DOES NOT finish off the raw edges, so it is best being used on a garments with lining.

Step 1. Stitch pocket piece along the seam of front and back pieces using 6 mm seam. (Usually this is a side seam, however it all depends on style lines of the garment you are making.)


Step 2. Press seams going inwards the pocket. (Do this to all 4 seams).


Step 3. Facing the RIGHT sides of the fabrics together, pin front and back pocket pieces together aligning the newly sewn seam. (Do this again for the other pocket).


Step 4. Stitch along the pocket edge using allocated seam allowance stopping at the marked point. With needle being down turn the fabric and stitch the side seams below the pocket.

Next, stitch the side seam above the pocket.

inseam pocket


Step 5. Now simply clip back seam allowance and press it open.


Step 6. Give it a final press and you are done.


Final thoughts

Although this method is quick I am not 100% satisfied with the end result. Don’t get me wrong….it looks good, however I feel like the opening of the pocket should be stabilized somehow. Maybe I am paranoid here, because the lower part of the jacket is a peplum, which is kind of round, so the pocket opening may stretch with time as I use it. Other then that I am not convinced that snipped seam allowance will not fray….hmmm

Time will tell I guess.

What do you think? Did you ever used this method?

Monika xxx

Make your first pop-over placket

Today I will share with you how I constructed my first ever shirt placket. If you would like to try it, but are scared (like I was just a week ago), keep reading, because I really like you to give it a go. It is not as difficult as it may look.

let’s do this !

step-by-step pop-over placket construction

I started with marking a center front- you can draw a line or do what I have done and press it with iron. You can skip this step all together if you wish , but I find it more helpful to accurately place a placket piece in the middle .If you eyeball it you may end up with a wonky placket.


Make sure your placket piece is interfaced on the wrong side first, then transfer all markings and notches.


The next step is to fold and press the fabric along the lines that you drew, this will make our placket nice and even on both sides.


Place the RIGHT side of placket piece onto the WRONG side of front piece. Match center lines together and pin it together.


Now, carefully stitch along the marked lines. TIP: when you get to the corner leave the needle inside the fabric, bring your foot up and turn your fabric 90 degrees, lower your foot and continue sewing. Repeat this when you arrive to the other corner.


Examine your stitch, as any wonky lines will be noticeable later on.


Nerve-wracking moment ….

Time to cut the fabric along the center line. Stop at the top of the triangle and cut it on both sides, like in the picture below. TIP: try to get as close as possible to a stitch line, but DO NOT cut it, to ensure a crisp finish.


Turn the whole placket piece to the front and press it in place. This is where you can see if you have cut in the corners as close to stitch line as possible. Note, that you will not get a clean look if you do not snip it near as possible to the stitching line.


The next step, is to press the under placket’s (shorter edge) seams allowance towards the inside of the placket. You can trim away the excess of the seam allowance if you prefer at this point.


Pin it in place and top- stitch, finishing where the little triangle starts.


Do the same on the other side-top placket. Ensure that the under placket piece is fully covered. pin in place and top-stitch, ending at the same point.


Once you are happy with your top-stitching, press it all in place.

 You can use this step to try different styles. I think this is the easiest one, as you only need to press the bottom seam allowance underneath, to give you a square end.


It can be a bit fiddly depending on your fabric, so it may be easier to temporary hand stitch the end of the placket before doing top-stitching.



TIP: when doing the final top-stitching ensure you “catch” the edges on the inside. I have missed mine so had to hand sewn it.


Time to make some buttonholes! I am not fun of making these, as in the past managed to ruin the clothing on this final step. However now I feel more confident. Saying that I can give you a final TIP: when your buttonhole is ready to be cut, it is helpful to put a pin close to the ends. I normally use seam ripper so this stops me from cutting/ripping bigger opening then it needs to be (this is how I ruined my clothes in the past).




Hope you find this helpful and you have more confidence. I am in the middle of making Kalle shirt from Close Case Patterns and can honestly say that my second pop-over placket looks even better….but I will show you that in my next post.

Happy placket making everyone!!!

Monika xxx