Drafting Peter Pan Collar

It has been a while since my last post, however I have a good excuse for it.

I had been studying very hard for my next exam in the past few weeks and sadly had no spare time to do much sewing, let alone writing something on the subject. All I have to do now, is wait 6 weeks for the results… what better to do it the meantime, then sew, sew, sew 🙂

Today’s tutorial will show you how to draft a simple Peter Pan collar on any shirt/blouse pattern you may already have. It is super simple to do and it gives you the option to customize the garment.

Peter Pan Collar

 First, take your front and back bodice pieces and mark your seam allowance on the shoulder seam.

Second, draw a desired collar shape on the front piece. You can decide the width and the shape of the collar. I decided that my collar will be 5 cm in width and have a nice smooth curve.

TIP: Regardless if your shirt has a front opening, such a button placket or not, ensure that the collar’s curve starts at the center front. This will stop from collar overlapping at the front….unless it is a part of your design.

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Continue drawing the shape of the collar onto the back piece.

Next, mark a line around 1 cm below the seam line. This will stop the collar to lay completely flat and adds some dimension.20180610_124335.jpg

Now you can “join” the shoulder seam adjusting the angle with that 1cm difference you marked in the previous step.20180610_124440.jpg

All you have to do now, is to copy your newly drafted Peter Pan Collar onto a clean sheet of paper. Remember to add a seam allowance to the outer edge and any necessary markings. 20180610_125401

This is it! Told you it was easy!

~Are you fan of a Peter Pan collar, or prefer different style?~

Monika xxx

Sewing in-seam pocket vol.1

Finally I have started working on my McCall’s jacket. It is a first time that I am making a fully lined jacket and I am scared that will mess it up.

The pattern includes in-seam pockets, which I am not confident of making. I have been researching a lot to find the best technique and discovered that there are so many ways of sewing an in-seam pockets, so I have decided to document each method that I will come across and see which one I like the most and which one gives the cleanest results.

In-seam pocket tutorial

Below is a step by step method that I have used following the pattern instructions.

Before you start make sure you have cut all pocket pieces (4 in total if you doing two pockets), your front panel pieces and your back panel pieces. Do not forget to transfer all necessary markings such as notches indicating a pocket opening (you can see a purple dot on my fabric). This method DOES NOT finish off the raw edges, so it is best being used on a garments with lining.

Step 1. Stitch pocket piece along the seam of front and back pieces using 6 mm seam. (Usually this is a side seam, however it all depends on style lines of the garment you are making.)

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Step 2. Press seams going inwards the pocket. (Do this to all 4 seams).

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Step 3. Facing the RIGHT sides of the fabrics together, pin front and back pocket pieces together aligning the newly sewn seam. (Do this again for the other pocket).

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Step 4. Stitch along the pocket edge using allocated seam allowance stopping at the marked point. With needle being down turn the fabric and stitch the side seams below the pocket.

Next, stitch the side seam above the pocket.

inseam pocket

 

Step 5. Now simply clip back seam allowance and press it open.

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Step 6. Give it a final press and you are done.

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Final thoughts

Although this method is quick I am not 100% satisfied with the end result. Don’t get me wrong….it looks good, however I feel like the opening of the pocket should be stabilized somehow. Maybe I am paranoid here, because the lower part of the jacket is a peplum, which is kind of round, so the pocket opening may stretch with time as I use it. Other then that I am not convinced that snipped seam allowance will not fray….hmmm

Time will tell I guess.

What do you think? Did you ever used this method?

Monika xxx