Make your first pop-over placket

Today I will share with you how I constructed my first ever shirt placket. If you would like to try it, but are scared (like I was just a week ago), keep reading, because I really like you to give it a go. It is not as difficult as it may look.

let’s do this !

step-by-step pop-over placket construction

I started with marking a center front- you can draw a line or do what I have done and press it with iron. You can skip this step all together if you wish , but I find it more helpful to accurately place a placket piece in the middle .If you eyeball it you may end up with a wonky placket.

 

Make sure your placket piece is interfaced on the wrong side first, then transfer all markings and notches.

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The next step is to fold and press the fabric along the lines that you drew, this will make our placket nice and even on both sides.

 

Place the RIGHT side of placket piece onto the WRONG side of front piece. Match center lines together and pin it together.

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Now, carefully stitch along the marked lines. TIP: when you get to the corner leave the needle inside the fabric, bring your foot up and turn your fabric 90 degrees, lower your foot and continue sewing. Repeat this when you arrive to the other corner.

 

Examine your stitch, as any wonky lines will be noticeable later on.

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Nerve-wracking moment ….

Time to cut the fabric along the center line. Stop at the top of the triangle and cut it on both sides, like in the picture below. TIP: try to get as close as possible to a stitch line, but DO NOT cut it, to ensure a crisp finish.

 

Turn the whole placket piece to the front and press it in place. This is where you can see if you have cut in the corners as close to stitch line as possible. Note, that you will not get a clean look if you do not snip it near as possible to the stitching line.

 

The next step, is to press the under placket’s (shorter edge) seams allowance towards the inside of the placket. You can trim away the excess of the seam allowance if you prefer at this point.

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Pin it in place and top- stitch, finishing where the little triangle starts.

 

Do the same on the other side-top placket. Ensure that the under placket piece is fully covered. pin in place and top-stitch, ending at the same point.

 

Once you are happy with your top-stitching, press it all in place.

 You can use this step to try different styles. I think this is the easiest one, as you only need to press the bottom seam allowance underneath, to give you a square end.

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It can be a bit fiddly depending on your fabric, so it may be easier to temporary hand stitch the end of the placket before doing top-stitching.

 

 

TIP: when doing the final top-stitching ensure you “catch” the edges on the inside. I have missed mine so had to hand sewn it.

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Time to make some buttonholes! I am not fun of making these, as in the past managed to ruin the clothing on this final step. However now I feel more confident. Saying that I can give you a final TIP: when your buttonhole is ready to be cut, it is helpful to put a pin close to the ends. I normally use seam ripper so this stops me from cutting/ripping bigger opening then it needs to be (this is how I ruined my clothes in the past).

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THE END 🙂

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Hope you find this helpful and you have more confidence. I am in the middle of making Kalle shirt from Close Case Patterns and can honestly say that my second pop-over placket looks even better….but I will show you that in my next post.

Happy placket making everyone!!!

Monika xxx

Tilly and the buttons -Cleo dress

Cleo Pinafore

Guess what I have made????

You cannot?…ohhh let me tell you !!!!

I have made not one, but TWO Cleo Dresses from Tilly and The Buttons. WHAT??!!?!? Monika are you crazy??? Nope, just in love with this pattern!!!!

Some weeks ago I told you already how much I adore Tilly’s style, her book “Love at first stitch” is amazing, however I had Cleo pattern for a while now, so I thought it should be easier make before I get my hands dirty with a Mimi blouse….check my previous post if you are lost.

Cleo….hmmmm where do I start???

I admired this dress for a while, watching endless samples that other people made and day dreaming about the time when I will have one in my wardrobe. This time is finally here 🙂

This is the first time, in a very long time, when I DID NOT have to make any pattern adjustments. OK, when I say none, I mean like a major pattern adjustments, I still had to shorten the hem hihih….I am short, remember? I have to shorten everything!

The pattern gives you option between two dress lengths-shorter (knee length) or longer one with a split in the front. Also, there is a selection of different pocket placements in the front and on the back.

  I decided to cut size 6 based on my hip measurement alone. My waist measurement was closer to size 8, however as the pattern around this area is looser I thought ignoring it would be acceptable. And, I was right!

Cleo Dress vol.1

20180212_141634[1]My first Cleo was made from corduroy fabric I had in my stash for a while. I followed the pattern instruction exactly ( as expected Tilly’s pattern offers clear step by step instruction with pictures for easy reference when in doubt), and I did not have any problems. I’ve made the shorter version, which had to shorten further by about 7cm. Other then that, it is straight from the pocket.

20180212_141852[1]I only sewn one pocket, but I took my time to ensure my top-stitching looks nice.

The dress has interfacing all around for a clear finish, which is great. I did not top-stitch it, because it would not be that visible on this fabric, hence only hand stitched it in couple of places to make sure it will not roll out once I am wearing it. It worked pretty well.

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Cleo dress vol.2

I wore my first Cleo to work so many times in the last couple of weeks,and got so many compliments on it, so I HAD to make another version.

This time I wanted to be more adventurous and I hacked the pattern to make pockets that are not top-stitched, but “inside” the dress, similar style that are found inside a trousers.

I have made the same size, but this time I went with a cotton fabric with some floral print, that caught my eye in the fabric shop (it is from Fabric Textiles on Goldhawk Road in London).

 

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Look at this happy face 🙂20180203_200344[1]

It took me a while to figure out how I need to hack the pattern that will give me the desired effect, but it was time well spent. I am absolutely thrilled with the result!!! Cleo vol.2 is also fully lined as Cleo vol.1 keep sticking to my tights when I walk.

Also, I put a snaps here, because I did not have buckles, but I think it works nicely anyway.

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I wore it once already and it is so comfy.

Pattern hack

This post will be a little longer as I have promised on Instagram that I will write a blog on how I have done the pattern for this pocket…keep reading…

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This is how my pattern look like…you can see how many times I was changing my mind…so to make it more clear for you I made it again on a mini version of the pattern.

The following are the steps I took to create this pocket:

1.Copy FRONT dress pattern (I have done without the seam allowance here)-unless you want to ruin your original one – which I am guessing you do not 🙂

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2.Choose a placement of the pocket opening. This is up to you. I put on my first Cleo and marked where I like my pockets to be. The line shape is also your choice. I am thinking to do a curved pocket opening next time 😉20180212_190333[1]

3.Next, draw a shape and size of your new pocket. You can decide how deep it is.20180212_190801[1]4.Take your tracing wheel and TWO sheets of paper-Trace of all new lines, including pocket shape. If you do not have a tracing wheel, just copy the style lines and pocket lines onto a clear paper.20180212_190856[1]

20180212_191033[1]5.Now we will make the top pocket pattern-just draw a lines around the curve of the pocket and its opening. Add seam allowance (orange pen) and markings (purple pen).

 

20180212_1920021-e1518470198940.jpg6.The second pattern is bottom part of the pocket (visible part of the front)-add seam allowance and markings.20180212_1919581.jpg

7.Cut out your pattern pieces – and we are done 🙂

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8.Nearly forgot!!!….Remember to transfer the grain line onto your new pattern pieces 😉

That is it! Not that difficult once you know what to do hihi

Let me know if you need guiding on construction.

~Let’s hack and have fun~