Kalle shirt – Full bust adjustment

Kalle shirt by Closet Case Patterns

March has already gone, and so another project for #sewmystyle2018 is completed. This time the challenge was to make a shirt, tunic or a dress based on Kalle shirt/dress pattern. This pattern is so versatile and you can mix and match different styles, such as pop-over, standard or hidden placket, band or standard collar, inverted or box pleat.

It was my first time using a pattern by Closet Case Patterns Company, however I was familiar with the brand, as I read many, many reviews of their lovely patters before. Same as last month, I have purchased the PDF pattern and glued it all together. I am getting better at it 🙂

Based on my bust measurement I decided to go with a size 16 and make a view A, which is a cropped top version, which I had made with a pop-over placket, standard collar and a inverted pleat. You can see a step-by-step tutorial on how to make your first pop-over placket in my previous post. I absolutely love this type of shirts, so was a little upset when once again, something was not right for me. Obviously, it is nothing wrong with the pattern itself, as you can read many reviews online from other people who had no fitting problems….lucky !!!!

Close Case Patterns instruction booklet is clear and easy to follow. I only had a little hiccup when doing a “burrito” method, so it would be nice if photos instead of drawings were inserted. Saying that, Close Case blog came very handy whenever i was in doubt. They do great sew-along for their patterns.

Pattern adjustments

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As you can see my first Kalle need some work to fit me better…. side seams are shifting forward and the whole front panel is lifting up. The other problem I have noticed is that the shoulder seams are way back…

I was a little lost here, as the style of this shirt is loose with not darts to shape, so I had to ask for an advice on how to fix the problems.

I  had determined that I need a full bust adjustment (thanks to amazing Charlotte Wills, Chris Griffin, Geraldine Cooper, Isa Ribeiro, Katie Lee who kindly took their time to point me it the right direction). By the way….Sew my style 2018 Facebook group is AMAZING! So encouraging and positive bunch of people 🙂

How do you do full bust adjustment with no darts??????

This is how!!!!..it is easy….hihihi

Copy front piece without seam allowance, with all necessary notches and markings.

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Next, find your apex point-I placed the pattern on my chest and roughly marked the highest bust point. I do not think you have to be very precise here….but correct me if I am wrong.

Then, draw 5 lines:

1.Extended side seam through the sleeve

2. From the apex point parallel line to center front

3.From the apex point towards sleeve notch

4.From the apex point towards the bottom of the sleeve

5. horizontal line around 5 cm away from the hem line
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Now, cut off the sleeve and put it aside….we will reattach it later.

Cut through lines 2,3 and 4 stopping just before the side seam.

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Depending on the size of your bust, the amount you spread will vary,I added 1,5 cm.

You have a couple of options now depending on how you spread it:

– you can add length to front piece ( this is what I have done, by cutting through line 5 and spreading it as much as needed – 5 cms) or you can leave the hem line the same if you are happy with the length.

– you can add width to front piece ( again, this is what I have done), just ensure you spread line 2 evenly. Do not worry about overlapping pieces.
20180307_211225[1]– If you are happy with the width, then you can spread line 2 away around apex point, but joining the points back at the hem line. Hope that I did not confuse you hihihi

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Once you added desired measurements then it is time to put this piece into one again;)

Join the sleeve piece and fill it in with a spare piece of paper.

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Do the same for the rest of the front piece and re-draw a hem line. I took the original piece and copied the shape of hem, but you have the opportunity to shape it as you wish. Add seam allowance and you are ready to go…or you can copy it to a new piece of paper if you are a control freak like me hihihi20180308_185352[1]

There are other minor pattern adjustments that I have done:

-I had drafted a new front facing

-I have moved shoulder seam towards the front by 2 cm, simply cut 2 cm from the shoulder front seam and attach it to the shoulder back seam. By doing this I had to remember to move collar stand notch to much new shoulder seam line and move sleeve cuff seam to the front too.

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Final thoughts

I am obsessed with this pattern, and already in the middle of doing a dress version with a pop-over placket. Now that I have perfected the fit I am sure I will come back to this pattern on many occasions.

What style did you choose??

Monika xxx

~onto a next make~

 

Make your first pop-over placket

Today I will share with you how I constructed my first ever shirt placket. If you would like to try it, but are scared (like I was just a week ago), keep reading, because I really like you to give it a go. It is not as difficult as it may look.

let’s do this !

step-by-step pop-over placket construction

I started with marking a center front- you can draw a line or do what I have done and press it with iron. You can skip this step all together if you wish , but I find it more helpful to accurately place a placket piece in the middle .If you eyeball it you may end up with a wonky placket.

 

Make sure your placket piece is interfaced on the wrong side first, then transfer all markings and notches.

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The next step is to fold and press the fabric along the lines that you drew, this will make our placket nice and even on both sides.

 

Place the RIGHT side of placket piece onto the WRONG side of front piece. Match center lines together and pin it together.

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Now, carefully stitch along the marked lines. TIP: when you get to the corner leave the needle inside the fabric, bring your foot up and turn your fabric 90 degrees, lower your foot and continue sewing. Repeat this when you arrive to the other corner.

 

Examine your stitch, as any wonky lines will be noticeable later on.

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Nerve-wracking moment ….

Time to cut the fabric along the center line. Stop at the top of the triangle and cut it on both sides, like in the picture below. TIP: try to get as close as possible to a stitch line, but DO NOT cut it, to ensure a crisp finish.

 

Turn the whole placket piece to the front and press it in place. This is where you can see if you have cut in the corners as close to stitch line as possible. Note, that you will not get a clean look if you do not snip it near as possible to the stitching line.

 

The next step, is to press the under placket’s (shorter edge) seams allowance towards the inside of the placket. You can trim away the excess of the seam allowance if you prefer at this point.

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Pin it in place and top- stitch, finishing where the little triangle starts.

 

Do the same on the other side-top placket. Ensure that the under placket piece is fully covered. pin in place and top-stitch, ending at the same point.

 

Once you are happy with your top-stitching, press it all in place.

 You can use this step to try different styles. I think this is the easiest one, as you only need to press the bottom seam allowance underneath, to give you a square end.

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It can be a bit fiddly depending on your fabric, so it may be easier to temporary hand stitch the end of the placket before doing top-stitching.

 

 

TIP: when doing the final top-stitching ensure you “catch” the edges on the inside. I have missed mine so had to hand sewn it.

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Time to make some buttonholes! I am not fun of making these, as in the past managed to ruin the clothing on this final step. However now I feel more confident. Saying that I can give you a final TIP: when your buttonhole is ready to be cut, it is helpful to put a pin close to the ends. I normally use seam ripper so this stops me from cutting/ripping bigger opening then it needs to be (this is how I ruined my clothes in the past).

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THE END 🙂

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Hope you find this helpful and you have more confidence. I am in the middle of making Kalle shirt from Close Case Patterns and can honestly say that my second pop-over placket looks even better….but I will show you that in my next post.

Happy placket making everyone!!!

Monika xxx