Sunny top adjustments

Today I was a busy bunny….Adjusting the Sunny top pattern. I have made a few adjustments, but I am not sure if they will work in my favor or not, as I have not sewn it yet.

Below are all changes I have made:

Sway back adjustment

After “pinching” all the excess fabric on the lower part of my back, I realized I need to take in about 3 cm. I am still learning, however I have used this type of sway back adjustment in the past and it worked for me.

You need to:

  • first, draw a perpendicular line to your center back around your the waist and another one 3 cm above
  • next, from your first line draw a line parallel to center back ( I have done it roughly in the middle), stopping around 12 cm from the shoulder seam.
  • From that end draw two lines that connect each ends of the shoulder (like in the picture below)
  • cut through all lines apart from the top “waist “line, remember not to cut through shoulders ends completely. You want them to still be attached, as it will help with adjustment.
  • now, slide down the top part of the pattern to match uncut line- this is how we reduce the excess fabric. Hold it in place with a glue or a tape and fill the blanks with a piece of paper.

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This type of sway back adjustment, always increase the looseness of the garment. Usually I would “shave off” this, but as my first Sunny top was a little to close to my body, decided to skip this step.

Lower hem

As you may remember from my previous post I moved up the waist and ended up with top that was a bit to short for me. This time I remembered to lower the hem by 3 cm 😉 Also decided to reduce the curve of the hem.

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“Bust dart”

I need to be honest….here I have no clue what I was doing….

Obviously I didn’t want to create a dart, as it is a stretchy fabric, so I had to come up with a plan of somehow eliminating that unwanted bulk.

Why did I drew so many lines???…because I kept changing my mind. I figured I will try to do something similar to a sway back adjustment, but in the front hmmm???WHAT???

yeahhh I am soooo confused. I am not going to explain what was I thinking. Help me please, if you know a better (or proper) way to fix this fitting problem.

Sleeve adjustment

I had to increase a sleeve crown, to fix the “wings” problem. I sliced the sleeve crown and added around 4 cm. This however created another problem. Now, I have too big sleeve head compared to the armhole. ohh noooo!!! Monika, you suppose to eliminate problems! NOT create them!!!

Arm-cycle adjustments

The easiest way, is to increase the arm-cycle to allocate enough space for my new sleeve. As this pattern is for Jersey fabrics , it is a little bit forgiving ( I am hoping anyway :)) I have lowered the curve of an armhole by 2 cm on the front and the back pattern pieces.

Everything seams fit fine for the back piece, but the front piece is way to small, due to my earlier “dart” adjustment. I got stuck at this point and spend far too much time looking at the pattern pieces.

My final adjustment, looks like is counter-productive here, however I did not know what else to do. I took a back piece and copied the armhole to a front piece. Why do I feel like a loser now???

That is all for now.

I will make another Sunny top based on my “new and improved” pattern (who am I kidding hahaha).

~Till next time. Have a great day.~

 

Sunny dress/top by Friday Pattern Company

January

Today I want to share my January make for #sewmystyle2018 challenge, which was a pattern from Friday Pattern Company called Sunny Top/dress.

I have made a top version as I am new to sewing with stretchy fabrics and was not sure about the fit. This pattern has a mixed reviews, hence wasting so much fabric for a dress would be a silly thing to do…..so I played it safe and opted to try a top first.

I have cut size XXL and made only one adjustments to ensure it fits my petite frame better…..I moved up a waist line by 3 cm.

This is how it turned out.

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As you can see it looks pretty good on a mannequin, however on me it does not look as good anymore.

There are many issues with this fit on my figure.

  • Too much fabric on my lower back, which indicate that I need a sway back adjustment.
  • Around bust area there is excess fabric that creates a “dart”.
  • Many drag lines on sleeves, which also are pocking upwards.

Pattern review

I really like how the pattern instructions are presented. It offers you some advice on sewing with knits and gives you a pattern prep check list, which comes very handy. The step-by-step information is very easy to follow and the language used is clear.

What I found a little frustrating is that measurements weren’t attached to the pattern and I had to go on the company website to find it. I like to have it together with a pattern.

Another thing that put me off balance was lack on notches on the pattern pieces. It is not a big problem, as this pattern is fairly straightforward, however for me is easier when I have markings to ensure everything matches nicely.

I have also added a neckband to my top, only because it is more preferred by me. To do that I have measured the length of a front and a back neck seam and calculated 80% of that value, which for me was 28 cm in length, then added 5 cm in width.

I nearly forgot to cut it on fold 🙂

 

Final thoughts

I do not want to give up on Sunny top just yet. I will make all necessary adjustments in the near future, so can use it again and again as it has a potential of becoming a basic top pattern in my wardrobe. I’ll keep you posted.

~Onto the next make~