Finally I have started working on my McCall’s jacket. It is a first time that I am making a fully lined jacket and I am scared that will mess it up.
The pattern includes in-seam pockets, which I am not confident of making. I have been researching a lot to find the best technique and discovered that there are so many ways of sewing an in-seam pockets, so I have decided to document each method that I will come across and see which one I like the most and which one gives the cleanest results.
In-seam pocket tutorial
Below is a step by step method that I have used following the pattern instructions.
Before you start make sure you have cut all pocket pieces (4 in total if you doing two pockets), your front panel pieces and your back panel pieces. Do not forget to transfer all necessary markings such as notches indicating a pocket opening (you can see a purple dot on my fabric). This method DOES NOT finish off the raw edges, so it is best being used on a garments with lining.
Step 1. Stitch pocket piece along the seam of front and back pieces using 6 mm seam. (Usually this is a side seam, however it all depends on style lines of the garment you are making.)
Step 2. Press seams going inwards the pocket. (Do this to all 4 seams).
Step 3. Facing the RIGHT sides of the fabrics together, pin front and back pocket pieces together aligning the newly sewn seam. (Do this again for the other pocket).
Step 4. Stitch along the pocket edge using allocated seam allowance stopping at the marked point. With needle being down turn the fabric and stitch the side seams below the pocket.
Next, stitch the side seam above the pocket.
Step 5. Now simply clip back seam allowance and press it open.
Step 6. Give it a final press and you are done.
Although this method is quick I am not 100% satisfied with the end result. Don’t get me wrong….it looks good, however I feel like the opening of the pocket should be stabilized somehow. Maybe I am paranoid here, because the lower part of the jacket is a peplum, which is kind of round, so the pocket opening may stretch with time as I use it. Other then that I am not convinced that snipped seam allowance will not fray….hmmm
Time will tell I guess.
What do you think? Did you ever used this method?