Yet another simple hack -V neckline alternation on a dress

We are having a beautiful weather in London lately and it could be seen that the Spring is here in full swing….but wait a minute! I am not ready!!!! Time to make some dresses so I can swoosh around the town.

Hope you are ready for some pattern hacking? I will demonstrate this alternation using Honeycomb dress pattern by Cocowawa Crafts that I did sew along to last year, but you can adapt any top/dress pattern that has a button up front placket.

Hacking the pattern

We are altering a neckline on this dress so the only pattern piece that you will need to copy is the front bodice unless you are happy to cut your original one.

Measure desired lenght of your neckline drop (mine was around 13 cm) and draw a V shape up to first fold line. Cut along this new line.

To draft a facing for the new neckline start with coping the front piece at the neckline and centre front including placket.

Measure about 5 cm parallel to those lines smoothing any corners so you end up with a nice arch line.

Measure 1 cm from the second fold line and eliminate all the excess on both the front and facing pattern pieces.

On the front pattern mark a placement of a top buttonhole, around 2 cm from the edge (remember that you have a 1cm seam allowance so the neckline will become even lower) and adjust place of any following buttonholes if they don’t match with the pattern.

To draft a back neck facing draw a parallel line 5 cm from the back neckline and trace it of on a separate piece of paper including any necessary markings.

Tip: it is best to interface neckline facing to give some structure and reinforcement.

That is all for today!

~let me know if you need tutorial on how to sew it up~

Monika xxx

Honeycomb shirt by Cocowawa Crafts

I am a big fun of trying something new or doing something for the first time, hence I have decided to participate in a sew along. This one was a first for me and I was eager to start and had completed it way before the allocated time.

Lovely Ana from Cocowawa Crafts released a new pattern which instantly caught my eye, so I became even more excited when I read on her blog that she scheduled a sew along for that pattern yeaaayyyy

You can find a detailed program and helpful tutorials on her blog, however the instruction booklet provided with the pattern itself was easy enough to understand so I doubt you will have any troubles.

 

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Photo by Cocowawa Crafts

The pattern

Honeycomb shirt/dress features a Mandarin type collar and a front button placket.  You can choose to make a shirt version ( like me ) which comes with a gathered peplum, that I think looks adorable. Dress has a midi length and it comes with pockets. Both options include a lovely ties around waist that you can adjust depending on your preferences.

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The pattern adjustments

I have cut size 7 based on my bust measurements and started with my usual sway back adjustments. To my surprise I did not have to raise the waist line, which made a process much faster.

When I had sewn the bodice part I realized that the finished look is much more boxy then I like, so at the end I ended up sewing the side seam closer by 2 cm on each side. It is still loose and comfortable,  but  think it suits me better now. This has created completely “new” armhole circumference (which in my opinion was way to low anyway) and I started to wonder if I should adjust the sleeve pattern piece. After thinking it over and over again I have decided to cut size 5 sleeve and make a gathers at the shoulder seam to accommodate all that extra ease.

With the gathered peplum I thought it would look very nice, and I was not disappointed!

The other alternation from the original pattern was my choice of Peter Pan Collar instead of Mandarin one. During hot weather I prefer this option and I believe it make my shirt a little more unique. You can find in my previous post step by step tutorial on how to draft a Peter Pan Collar on your existing shirt pattern.

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There are different methods of finishing off seam allowance but this time I had used bias binding from inside to create a clean finish. 20180620_191516

Final thoughts

I have made my Honeycomb shirt from drapey viscose fabric, that is absolutely perfect for this pattern. Thank to its loose structure the shirt is comfortable and it allows for a free body movement, which I look for in my clothes. I will make another version of this shirt, however this time will size down to 5 and will reduce the armhole circumference. Other then that it is a wonderful pattern with many great options.

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You still have time to take part in a Ana’s sew along this month.

There are great prices kindly offered by Harriet from Sew Me Sunshine and Joy from Pink Coat Club, as well as an extra price given from Ana herself. What more do you need???

 

 

What do you think about Honeycomb shirt/dress pattern? Would love to find out!

xxx Monika