Hi sewing friends! In today’s post I will share with you yet another pattern I had the honour to test before it’s release into the wild. This time it is a pattern by Betsy, from Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick Patterns. Few weeks ago I noticed a call out for pattern testers on Betsy’s Instagram Stories and straight away jumped into it without even thinking. In all honesty I need to admit that this was my very first time making a pattern by SBCC. Imagine my reaction when I realized that they cater for petite women in particular!!! OMG!!! This gets better and better! Will this be my TO GO pattern company from now on??? But enough of my rumbling…lets talk about the Pisco Dress!
Pisco top/dress is a pattern designed for a knit fabrics. It comes as a semi fitted dress option that depending on your fabric choice can be made into more sporty and everyday dress or more of a cocktail and evening dress or you can make a cute top that is great for layering.
The pattern is drafted with princess seams, nice round neckline and a shaped armhole bands that I see myself hacking into a cap sleeves !?
What is great and very unique about this pattern is the option of mix and matching different bra sizes and lengths. It can be a little confusing at first but it is so simple and genius on Betsy’s part. First you have the option of picking a cup size between B,C or D, next you need to choose the lenght of your bodice and skirt. The pattern comes in two lenghts: petite and average and last you pick your size. Just brilliant!!! If you are short waisted pick a petite lenght bodice, if you are long waisted pick average lenght bodice and so on and so forth.
Pattern instruction shows clear illustrations of each step , but omit the fabric layout recommendation. This is understandable, because it would take pages to showcase every single mix option for each size and lenght, however it includes a detailed yardage requirements for all options.
Based on my body measurements I chose cup size C with both petite bodice and skirt in size XL. My waist was falling slightly outside, but looking at the finished measurements I made a decision to try it as it is without grading. I am amazed by how well it fits me, especially on the back! I always have to make some sort of sway back adjustment, but this time it was not the case. It got me thinking…do I even have a sway back, or is it all about proportions???
Obviously this being a tester version it ws not perfect and Betsy made a couple of minor twicks to the pattern that eliminated armhole gaping and gave extra ease for bigger sizes.
The only alternation I had made this time was to “shave off” about 7 mm at the shoulder seam to reduce the gaping. Everything else is exactly as it is on the pattern and I couldn’t be happier!
To make this dress I purchased this lovely navy Ponte di Roma fabric with white polka dots from 1st for Fabrics. It was £6.50 per meter and I got 2.5 meters because I was not sure at that point how much I will need it. It has perfect amount of stretch for this dress and it is not too heavy. I had used only 1,2 meter so have enough for another project! Looks like the top version will be great for some fabric scrap busting….some color blocking perhaps?!
Sewing the pattern
It took me about 30 mins to cut out the pattern pieces and 2 hours to sew the garment, which is super fast! The dress is made out of 5 panels ( 1x front, 2x sides, 2x backs) plus neckline and armhole binding. That is all!
You probably guessed that I am absolutely over the moon with this pattern! It feels like it was drafted bespoke for my body. I will be using an re-using this pattern time and time again in the future and already planing to buy ALL of SBCC patterns!
~if you are petite you must have this dress ~