The most comfortable dress ever made – Heather dress by Sew Over It

Hi everyone! In today’s post I will finally share with you what I call “the most comfortable dress”  you can ever make! And I am not the only one, as many of you call it secret pyjamas!!! You know what I’m talking about, don’t you?!?! It is the fabulous Heather dress by Sew Over It. Normally I would write my final thoughts at the end…if there are any…but on this occasion I shall do something unexpected and start with it!…

 

Heather dress is absolutely my go to dress all year round. I had made 3 versions since buying the pattern last year and can honestly say it is worth every penny. It is versatile and makes me feel chic and stylish whenever I put it on! Plus it gives you an option to color block and get creative! I like it to wear it during warmer weather with sandals and during winter with tights and boots. Another staple piece in my wardrobe!

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Fabric

Heather is meant to be made out of a knit fabric, such as Ponte di Roma or double knit jersey and I had use different types each time I had made it. So far my favorite is the last one….maybe because I alter the pattern a bit each time and now I am content with the result or maybe because it’s made out of this beautiful Ponte di Roma I got from Croft Mill. It cost £7.00 per meter, but the quality is great. I previously purchased  cheaper poly jersey for my color block version and it was a disaster. After first wash the white panel became dirty grayish and it started to bubble….lesson learned…it’s better to spend few more pounds but enjoy and wear it for many years to come. This was the second time I had sewn with Ponte di Roma fabric and I must say it is one of the easiest knit to handle.

Fabric requirement for this pattern varies depending on size and option chosen, but for me 150cm is enough to make a sort sleeve version, so I save half a meter here, because I typically shorten most patterns substantially at the hem.

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Pattern adjustments

I have learnt some time ago to look at finished measurements chart at the same time as sizing chart to establish which size to cut out that would be best fit for my body. By doing this you will have a better idea if the pattern comes with a lot of ease or is it rather closer to the body, something this is cannot be clear based on a pattern lines or a picture.

Normally I would go with a bust measurement to pick a size and grade it from there, however for this pattern I chose my size based on my hip circumstance. Why did you do that Monika, you may ask… well…as this dress is sewn with a stretchy fabric it is more forgiving in comparison with woven materials, plus most of the time patterns that requires jersey type fabric would come with negative ease, meaning the pattern circumstances are smaller then your actual body. By looking at Heather’s finished measurements it can be seen that there is no ease at the bust, but there is a lot of extra fabric around the waist and hip areas. I decided to try size 16 which still gave me plenty of space to move and graded up at the bust. This was not difficult to do as the pattern comes with a princess type lines.

I had moved the waist up by 3 cm as I always do and at the same time did a sway back alteration on the pattern pieces to reduce the bulk of fabric that gathered above my bum. I pinched another 2 cm at the center back going to nothing at the side seam ( had to temporary tape it in place both back panels together).

Next I shortened the hem by 14 cm, but since doing my first version I had lengthen it again by 3 cm, so it reaches my knees.

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My first version comes with a 3/4 sleeves. I had tried a full length first, but did not like it on me. Since then I like the short sleeve best, but had to add some circumstances around the sleeve hem as it was tighter then I would prefer. I read that few people identified this problem too, which was not the case when making Molly top for me. I guess I will have to double check other Sew Over It designs in the future.

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Cutting and Sewing

Pattern comes with 15mm seam allowance which normally ( for patterns with stretchy fabric) I trim it down to about 8 to 10 mm so I can do the seams on my over-locker. This is not the best idea for this pattern, because Heather comes with in seam pockets ( which are awesome), and it would be very difficult to sew it with precision. Pattern instruction attached are very clear and easy to follow, which at this point I do not even look at 😉 It takes me about 40 mins to cut it out and 3 hours 30 minutes to complete sewing and pressing. It is not a speedy make, but anything that can be done in one sitting is an added bonus. I like to use a twin needle to finish the hems and top-stitch around the neckline.  I had realized that the neckband included in the pattern needs to by adjusted each time depending on a percentage of stretch in the fabric, so I cut it a bit longer and play with it to ensure I have enough. In general the more stretch the fabric has the shorter the neckband.

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~Heather is a must have dress, so do not waste any more time and start sewing!~

Monika xxx

 

 

 

Sew Over It – Molly top

Molly top

Sew Over It…..I am sooooo NOT over it !!!

It is my first Sew Over It pattern make and I must say it is amazing. Sew Over It is a London based pattern company with amazing selection of patterns that also sell a large variety of fabrics online and in their brick-and-mortar shops. It is a pride and joy of a lovely Lisa Comfort, who I follow on Instagram and YouTube.

Molly top/dress is available as a PDF pattern, which can be found in Lisa’s first book   “My Capsule Wardrobe. City Break”

My Capsule Wardrobe: City Break eBook by Lisa Comfort | Sew Over It

This eBook contains five different patterns, that you can mix and match to create relaxed and comfortable to wear outfits while exploring unknown….or do what I do, and wear it to work , shop, cinema…etc…you get where I am going with it 🙂

It is such an easy and fun make! I absolutely adore this pattern and will make many more in the future. So far I have made 3 versions and each one is perfect ( well not quite, but who is pointing fingers?)

I will start with my latest make as I am the most proud of it. I used Jersey fabric that I bought from Fabric Land. You may re-call I told you about it in my Visit to Kingston post. When I looked at it I immediately knew this will become a Molly top.

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I really like how it fits, and I did not have to do many adjustments to the pattern apart from shortening the hem and sleeves. I cut 5 cm at the bottom hem following the curve, and took 3 cm of the sleeve length.

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I took time to ensure my twin-needle stitch is as nice as possible, and I am pleased with the result. It is by far the best neckband I have ever made. So proud of myself.

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What drew my attention to Molly top was the black and white stripes on Lisa’s sample, so my first top had to be similar hihihi

Molly vol.1 is not perfect, however I still wear it at least once a week. I had a problem with my serger and had to do it all on my regular sewing machine. Overall it was not a problem, till I had to finished off all hems. I broke me twin needle…the only one I had 😦

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Monika, did you hear about stripe matching??? yes, yes, I did…This is my work at its best, but do not fear….practice makes perfect….or at least better 🙂20180221_075000[1].jpg

This is the result of me using a zig zag stitch. Looks awful, but I do not allow anybody to see it up close hihihi

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Molly vol.2 looks much better already….. stripe matching improved, twin-needle hemming done.

I had to do something different to entertain myself, so I opted for a slightly raised neck and copied a band stripe directions from Lisa. I cropped sleeves by 4 cm too.

This fabric color is more vibrant so I get noticed faster hihih

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Final thoughts

Molly pattern is perfect for beginners, or if you are busy and have little time to sew. It takes couple of hours to put together and you are ready to go.  I really like how Lisa illustrate each step in her book with a clear instructions and I cannot wait to make more of her designs……Little advice, if you planning to do it on a serger (like me) then make your life easier and trim the seam allowance according to your machine settings.

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Which one is your favorite?

~Monika~