I will call it Ogden Dress….

Hi sewing friends! As promised last week today I will share with you few facts about making of this dress that forever will be called a Ogden Dress, because why not? Hahaha I would like to start with saying that it turned out exactly as I imagined so I’m overjoyed about it. The quality of this fabric is superb so with care and love hopefully I will enjoy it for years to come.

On the subject of fabric I purchased 2 meters of this lovely stripe textured viscose linen from Myfabrics.co.uk. It was £8.45 per meter and a dream to work with. Easy to handle and press made the sewing process very pleasant. I must say that I thought it would be more on a lightweight side considering the composition of fibre is 70% viscose and 30% linen, however it has more structure and just a little bit of drape to it. Saying that it turned out to be ideal for my dress.

Sometimes the fabric dictates how your make will hang and behave and falling on a scale closer to medium weight I decided to only gather my dress partially at the front and at the back and avoided adding too much bulk around my waist.

Also, I was worried that the fabric is too thick to do shirring with elasticated thread, so I made a choice and used a regular elastic that I edge stitched on both sides. I like the effect and the stability it gives. With elastic thread I never know how much it will gather the fabric , but this way I cut exact final lenght I wanted it to be and stretch the elastic while sewing. I used about 2 meters of 1cm wide elastic from my stash.

From the start I knew I am going to make the bodice lined, but I also wanted to use the same fabric so it kept it’s structure and breathability. Due to fabric shortage I had to improvise here a little and all my lining pieces are cut horizonally, which is fine because I was playing with direction of stripes on this dress anyway. One thing I did do differently however is to skip the lining of the centre back panel. With being elasticated I thought it would be to much, hence the top edge is sewn with white bias tape to give it more of a neat finish, plus it covers the first row of elastic which otherwise might be to itchy on my skin.

I fused the entire button placket to give it more structure and reinforcement, as I did not want the risk of getting it out of shape during wear.

I was considering metal or wooden buttons for this dress, but could not find anything I liked so finally settled for those plastic 2 hole buttons from Minerva Crafts. There were only 15 pence per piece and I used 12 of them on this dress.

With the weather improving this weekend hopefully I will have a chance to finally wear my new dress! Cannot wait .

~Did you ever hacked a pattern till it morphed into something completely new?~

Monika xxx

Dreamy Ogden Cami with front button placket

Hi lovelies! As you may know by now, I love to hack and reuse patterns that I like and am comfortable in. One of my all time favorites is the one and only Ogden Cami by True Bias which is great for summer, but also why not wear it in winter with some chunky jumper on? Who said it is weather inappropriate???

Today I want to share with you how easy is to add a button placket and give your Cami a little upgrade.

Button placket hack

First, you must decide which button you will use as this determine the width of the placket extension. Do not worry about the right color at this point. The most important aspect here is the size of the button you will be using…..You can always buy the right color later.

 

For this project I will be using a small buttons of 12mm in diameter.

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To begin, copy the front pattern piece with all necessary markings and notches but omit ON FOLD marking at the center front, as this will be cut as separates.

Once assembled the buttons will be placed on the center front as seen on the picture, so draw a line parallel to a center front 12 mm in width…..or the size of your button.

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Next, we need to add a facing part to our extension, which is twice the size of the button diameter. In my case it is 24mm.

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After that all you need to remember is to add some seam allowance.

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To finish drafting the neckline simply cut along the seam allowance line and fold it twice, first along the seam allowance line and then the facing….same way as it will be sewn.

Take your tracing wheel and extend the neckline curve on the placket.

Once the pattern is open again it will give you a clear shape of the neckline. Draw a lines along the dots, extend the hemline and your are done drafting your pattern.

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If you know how many buttons you will use it is easy at this stage to add a button holes markings to your pattern.

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If you made this pattern before, you will know that the interfacing for front and back is quite substantial in width, so I decided to reduce it.

First, I copied front facing piece with all notches and markings.

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Next, I draw a parallel lines 6cm away from original neckline and armhole curves.

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To make this new edge easy to overlock I smoothed the line a little.

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Cut it out remembering that the front piece is cut twice and not on fold.

I did exactly the same to the back facing piece, however this one is cut on fold as no changes had been made to the back piece.

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You can follow above steps if you rather have the button placket on the back too. Giving you an option to change the look a bit 😉

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I had used a fabric covered buttons because I think it looks really good on this fabric.

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And this is how the facing looks from inside.

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This Cami is my favorite so far, but it may change in the near future as I have many more hacks to try out….will keep you posted.

~Have a go at this simple pattern alternation and let me know what you think!~

Monika xxx