Ski trousers -Lander pants by True Bias


Hello my crafty friends! Hope you are doing well with all that craziness that is happening right now.

Worry aside…I want to show you how I transferred a Lander pants by True Bias into a ski trousers that I made for my last Xmas trip to Poland.In my last post I explained in more details how I’ve made a welt pockets with a zipper, but today I want to show you my make in all its glory.I had previously used this pattern to make a Lander shorts, so had an idea of what adjustments I need to make this time.

Pattern adjustments

I cut out size 16 and the first adjustment was to decrease the length of crotch rise by about 2.5 cm. I prefer when they sit just below my natural waistline so when I sit it does not dig into my skin.I also slightly changed the curve on the front crotch line making it less prominent.Because my trouser ends below the waist I opted to draft a new curved waistband.  I could have used the original pattern piece,  but with my big bum I realized that the waistband often sticks out at the back. The option to use a curved waistband makes it fit my body better.Other than that I had used an ankle length of the pattern, because I’m short and folded the hem by 2 cm.

Details and features

You know that I really like to do pattern hacks, but this time it was not as much as a hack but more of an added features.Because I was making this pair of trousers to be used as a ski pants I wanted to add some zipped pockets….you know, so if I fall down no snow would get into the pocket and ruin my phone or money. I really like the look of a welt pocket and decided that it would make the trousers look interesting (the welt pocket with a zipper tutorial here). Of course I had to experiment a little with a style and placement so I thought it would me fun to add one pocket above my knee….no reason really, just a design feature.  But it came quiet handy at the end as I kept me ski pass there.If I’m not mistaken there is a zipper fly add on to Lander pants pattern as the original has the button fly instead. I did not buy it because I knew how to do it without it.
The reason why I chose to use Lander Pants pattern to make a Ski trousers was simply because I needed a pattern with wide pant leg. Wide enough to sit above a massive ski shoes. This has worked perfectly especially because I made the hem elasticated and used elastic stoppers to be able to adjust it depending on which shoe I’m wearing…none likes snow inside of their shoes….brrrrr As a last minute decision I used an old ribbon to make a belt loops. I tried making belt loops from the fabric but it was to thick and bulky. My machine was not able to cope with all the layers of fabric. It is a silly little detail that no-one really see because I usually wear a big jumper over it , but it does the job so I’m happy with it.I also opted to use hook and eye hardware instead of making buttonholes on the waistband, because I knew I would get frustrated with my machine .

Fabric choice

It took me ages to find suitable fabric for Ski trousers.  It had to be waterproof and keep me warm at the same time.After awhile I came across a waterproof Technical sports softshell fabric with a fleece backing and thermoplastic climate membrane from UK Fabrics Online for £12.99 a meter. I had never worked with this type of material before, but decided to try it out.I had ordered 2 meters and after few days had it delivered to my doorstep.The fabric has a slippery surface on one side and a fleece on the other side. My first action was to test if it really is a waterproof as it states…..and it was. I took the fabric to the sink and pour some water onto a slippery side. The water just sat there without going through the fabric…Great news! The fleece side is nice and fluffy and very nice on the skin, so I knew instantly that this is going to work as I had intended.

Sewing the pattern

Because this wasn’t my first time sewing Lander pants pattern I already knew what to expect. Obviously with adding welt pockets and elastic hem I had added to the workload, but overall the pattern is not that complicated and the instruction booklet clearly explain each step of construction.It took me 5 hours and 30 minutes to finish this make, and I did not have any difficulty sewing this fabric. The only minor issue here was pressing. Because of the nature and fiber content of this fabric (90 % pes, 4% spandex, 5% membrane) the iron has to be on a very low heat setting which does not press seams well.

Final thoughts

This was an interesting and fun project which allowed me to be more creative.I really like the project turned out and it was perfect during the trip. It kept my dry and warm without the need of wearing a thermal tights underneath. I would really like to make myself a little rain jacket out of this fabric next.

Have you ever sewn with waterproof fabric? What did you make?

Monika xxx

I will call it Ogden Dress….

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Hi sewing friends!

As promised last week today I will share with you few facts about making of this dress that forever will be called a Ogden Dress, because why not? Hahaha I would like to start with saying that it turned out exactly as I imagined so I’m overjoyed about it. The quality of this fabric is superb so with care and love hopefully I will enjoy it for years to come.

On the subject of fabric I purchased 2 meters of this lovely stripe textured viscose linen from It was £8.45 per meter and a dream to work with. Easy to handle and press made the sewing process very pleasant. I must say that I thought it would be more on a lightweight side considering the composition of fiber is 70% viscose and 30% linen, however it has more structure and just a little bit of drape to it. Saying that it turned out to be ideal for my dress.

Sometimes the fabric dictates how your make will hang and behave and falling on a scale closer to medium weight I decided to only gather my dress partially at the front and at the back and avoided adding too much bulk around my waist.

Also, I was worried that the fabric is too thick to do shirring with elasticated thread, so I made a choice and used a regular elastic that I edge stitched on both sides. I like the effect and the stability it gives. With elastic thread I never know how much it will gather the fabric , but this way I cut exact final length I wanted it to be and stretch the elastic while sewing. I used about 2 meters of 1cm wide elastic from my stash.

From the start I knew I am going to make the bodice lined, but I also wanted to use the same fabric so it kept it’s structure and breathability. Due to fabric shortage I had to improvise here a little and all my lining pieces are cut horizonally, which is fine because I was playing with direction of stripes on this dress anyway. One thing I did do differently however is to skip the lining of the centre back panel. With being elasticated I thought it would be to much, hence the top edge is sewn with white bias tape to give it more of a neat finish, plus it covers the first row of elastic which otherwise might be to itchy on my skin.

I fused the entire button placket to give it more structure and reinforcement, as I did not want the risk of getting it out of shape during wear.

I was considering metal or wooden buttons for this dress, but could not find anything I liked so finally settled for those plastic 2 hole buttons from Minerva Crafts. There were only 15 pence per piece and I used 12 of them on this dress.

With the weather improving this weekend hopefully I will have a chance to finally wear my new dress! Cannot wait .

~Did you ever hacked a pattern till it morphed into something completely new?~

Monika xxx