Button-up shirt

Hi !!! I am sure you had better things to do over the holiday period then wonder what is up with me? But I tell you anyway…. I had been quiet here lately simply because of lack of spare time. Since finishing my studies I took on some extra work and in my free time been doing extra pattern cutting, and other sewing related courses leaving me with not much time left to actually sew or blog.

Being obsessed with pattern cutting I had drafted my first button-up shirt. It is not perfect, but all the imperfections are giving me a room to learn and understand even more, so I am very happy with what I had achieved.

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Building on my basic bodice and skirt blocks that I developed during my pattern cutting course with Inseam studio I was able to transform the pieces into a simple button-up shirt with collar, long sleeves and cuffs.

The process of transforming basic block pieces into a shirt pattern took me a while, as I did not want to be too tight and I was trying to transfer some of the bust dart width into waist darts to avoid having a pointy nipples, which typically is a problem of someone with a larger bust then a C cup ;).

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I like the length and shape of the hem, but want to work more on  collar design. It is slightly too small for my taste. While drafting sleeves I also had made a simple error. Last minute decided to add sleeve cuffs, and simply cut off 5cm of sleeve hem, which was a mistake as now the sleeves are a little bit to short. I’m not too upset about it as I like to roll up the sleeves anyway. Apart from that I am pretty much happy with this project and planning to make another shirt after New Year.

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Lately I am taking more time to finish my garments to higher standards not only on the outside , but also on the inside, hence most of the seams are finished using French seam method, apart from the armhole, which I will try to do next time, as I nearly achieved the desired fit.

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I used bias binding to finish curved hem line, because it looks more neat and I think it is easier to sew comparing to double rolled hem.

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While drafting cuffs I opted for a version without button holes and made the cuff slightly narrower so the edges don’t overlap as much. This gave me the opportunity to have a button loops instead. It was pretty easy to do it, but I need to practice more to achieve the same look each time.20181126_120518

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I must say drafting this shirt took me longer then I expected, hovewer now that I have the pattern it will be much easier to twick it and make other designs.

~ have you ever drafted a shirt for yourself ?~

Monika xxx

 

Pattern drafting-half circle skirt with front button placket

Do you ever get inspired by looking at what other people wear? I am definitely guilty of that in my latest make.

The summer shortly will come to an end, but I really wanted to make myself a half circle skirt with a front button placket. If you would look into my closet you would not find a single skirt there, so I am a bit confused of my latest obsession. This must be the result of two patterns that were so popular this summer and countless number of beautiful makes by other dressmakers that I have seen on Instagram….Seren dress by Tilly and the Buttons and Fiona Sundress by Closet Case Patterns. I really admire both patterns, so have decided to put my newly learnt pattern drafting skills to test and make my own version of a skirt with a front button placket.

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Pattern Drafting

To start drafting a half circle skirt pattern first  draw two lines with 90 degrees angle and fold it in half ,or make a line of 45 degree angle. This line will be the center of the front and back skirt pieces and also our grain line!

For the ease of taking picture of the entire pattern my drawing is a mini version.

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To find a r =radius there is a little math involved, but do not worry, all you need to do is to take your waist measurement and divide it by 3.14. Is as simple as that! Now take that measurement and draw a quarter of a circle. This way we create the half of the pattern.

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Next, measure the desired length of your skirt and trace it onto the pattern following the  circle seam of the waistline. The straight lines will become a skirt’s side seams, so we need to remember to add a seam allowance.

Seam allowance need to be also outlined on the hemline and the waistline to finish drafting the skirt back pattern piece. This piece need to be cut only once on a single layer of fabric, or you can fold it along C/B (center back) if you prefer to cut your fabric on fold.

TIP: If you prefer a half circle skirt without the placket you can use this pattern as both front and back pieces and cut it twice.

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Before we go into drafting the front skirt piece we need to decide the width of the button placket.

TIP: The placket must be bigger in width to allow for buttons to sit in a center. I had used buttons with a diameter of 2 cm, so my completed placket width is 3 cm. This gives me half a centimeter on each side of the button, which is the minimum you will need.

I like to use the same back pattern when drafting the front (to reduce paper waste) but for the clarity of this step I am using a bigger scale.

From the center front line (marked as C/B on back piece) draw a parallel lines 1.5 cm away on each side to outline the placket. You can decide on button placement now if you wish, but this is not necessary at this point.

 

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The center front line on the front skirt pattern piece need to be reduced to accommodate for the placket allocation. The edge of drafted placket will become a new C/F (center front). Because the skirt front is formed from two separate pieces it is important here to add a seam allowance to new C/F.

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Now, it is time to draft the button placket, which is easy as all you need to do is copy the outline from the Front pattern and add seam allowance on all sides. Now would be the best time to mark button and the buttonhole placement.

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The last pattern piece to be drafted for this skirt would be the waistband. I opted for the easy version of having straight rectangle folded in half, but if you prefer more close to body fit you can draft a slightly curved waistband.

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And as a bonus….why not add some pockets!!!

You can draft a pocket by choosing any style and shape not forgetting to add seam allowance to all sides.

TIP: Notches including pocket placement and grain line are always important so make sure you remember to highlight them on you pattern pieces.

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That is it!

~Now you own a self drafted half circle skirt with a front button placket!!!~

Monika xxx