Pattern drafting-half circle skirt with front button placket

Do you ever get inspired by looking at what other people wear? I am definitely guilty of that in my latest make.

The summer shortly will come to an end, but I really wanted to make myself a half circle skirt with a front button placket. If you would look into my closet you would not find a single skirt there, so I am a bit confused of my latest obsession. This must be the result of two patterns that were so popular this summer and countless number of beautiful makes by other dressmakers that I have seen on Instagram….Seren dress by Tilly and the Buttons and Fiona Sundress by Closet Case Patterns. I really admire both patterns, so have decided to put my newly learnt pattern drafting skills to test and make my own version of a skirt with a front button placket.

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Pattern Drafting

To start drafting a half circle skirt pattern first  draw two lines with 90 degrees angle and fold it in half ,or make a line of 45 degree angle. This line will be the center of the front and back skirt pieces and also our grain line!

For the ease of taking picture of the entire pattern my drawing is a mini version.

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To find a r =radius there is a little math involved, but do not worry, all you need to do is to take your waist measurement and divide it by 3.14. Is as simple as that! Now take that measurement and draw a quarter of a circle. This way we create the half of the pattern.

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Next, measure the desired length of your skirt and trace it onto the pattern following the  circle seam of the waistline. The straight lines will become a skirt’s side seams, so we need to remember to add a seam allowance.

Seam allowance need to be also outlined on the hemline and the waistline to finish drafting the skirt back pattern piece. This piece need to be cut only once on a single layer of fabric, or you can fold it along C/B (center back) if you prefer to cut your fabric on fold.

TIP: If you prefer a half circle skirt without the placket you can use this pattern as both front and back pieces and cut it twice.

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Before we go into drafting the front skirt piece we need to decide the width of the button placket.

TIP: The placket must be bigger in width to allow for buttons to sit in a center. I had used buttons with a diameter of 2 cm, so my completed placket width is 3 cm. This gives me half a centimeter on each side of the button, which is the minimum you will need.

I like to use the same back pattern when drafting the front (to reduce paper waste) but for the clarity of this step I am using a bigger scale.

From the center front line (marked as C/B on back piece) draw a parallel lines 1.5 cm away on each side to outline the placket. You can decide on button placement now if you wish, but this is not necessary at this point.

 

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The center front line on the front skirt pattern piece need to be reduced to accommodate for the placket allocation. The edge of drafted placket will become a new C/F (center front). Because the skirt front is formed from two separate pieces it is important here to add a seam allowance to new C/F.

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Now, it is time to draft the button placket, which is easy as all you need to do is copy the outline from the Front pattern and add seam allowance on all sides. Now would be the best time to mark button and the buttonhole placement.

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The last pattern piece to be drafted for this skirt would be the waistband. I opted for the easy version of having straight rectangle folded in half, but if you prefer more close to body fit you can draft a slightly curved waistband.

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And as a bonus….why not add some pockets!!!

You can draft a pocket by choosing any style and shape not forgetting to add seam allowance to all sides.

TIP: Notches including pocket placement and grain line are always important so make sure you remember to highlight them on you pattern pieces.

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That is it!

~Now you own a self drafted half circle skirt with a front button placket!!!~

Monika xxx

 

Drafting Peter Pan Collar

It has been a while since my last post, however I have a good excuse for it.

I had been studying very hard for my next exam in the past few weeks and sadly had no spare time to do much sewing, let alone writing something on the subject. All I have to do now, is wait 6 weeks for the results… what better to do it the meantime, then sew, sew, sew 🙂

Today’s tutorial will show you how to draft a simple Peter Pan collar on any shirt/blouse pattern you may already have. It is super simple to do and it gives you the option to customize the garment.

Peter Pan Collar

 First, take your front and back bodice pieces and mark your seam allowance on the shoulder seam.

Second, draw a desired collar shape on the front piece. You can decide the width and the shape of the collar. I decided that my collar will be 5 cm in width and have a nice smooth curve.

TIP: Regardless if your shirt has a front opening, such a button placket or not, ensure that the collar’s curve starts at the center front. This will stop from collar overlapping at the front….unless it is a part of your design.

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Continue drawing the shape of the collar onto the back piece.

Next, mark a line around 1 cm below the seam line. This will stop the collar to lay completely flat and adds some dimension.20180610_124335.jpg

Now you can “join” the shoulder seam adjusting the angle with that 1cm difference you marked in the previous step.20180610_124440.jpg

All you have to do now, is to copy your newly drafted Peter Pan Collar onto a clean sheet of paper. Remember to add a seam allowance to the outer edge and any necessary markings. 20180610_125401

This is it! Told you it was easy!

~Are you fan of a Peter Pan collar, or prefer different style?~

Monika xxx