The most comfortable dress ever made – Heather dress by Sew Over It

Hi everyone! In today’s post I will finally share with you what I call “the most comfortable dress”  you can ever make! And I am not the only one, as many of you call it secret pyjamas!!! You know what I’m talking about, don’t you?!?! It is the fabulous Heather dress by Sew Over It. Normally I would write my final thoughts at the end…if there are any…but on this occasion I shall do something unexpected and start with it!…

 

Heather dress is absolutely my go to dress all year round. I had made 3 versions since buying the pattern last year and can honestly say it is worth every penny. It is versatile and makes me feel chic and stylish whenever I put it on! Plus it gives you an option to color block and get creative! I like it to wear it during warmer weather with sandals and during winter with tights and boots. Another staple piece in my wardrobe!

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Fabric

Heather is meant to be made out of a knit fabric, such as Ponte di Roma or double knit jersey and I had use different types each time I had made it. So far my favorite is the last one….maybe because I alter the pattern a bit each time and now I am content with the result or maybe because it’s made out of this beautiful Ponte di Roma I got from Croft Mill. It cost £7.00 per meter, but the quality is great. I previously purchased  cheaper poly jersey for my color block version and it was a disaster. After first wash the white panel became dirty grayish and it started to bubble….lesson learned…it’s better to spend few more pounds but enjoy and wear it for many years to come. This was the second time I had sewn with Ponte di Roma fabric and I must say it is one of the easiest knit to handle.

Fabric requirement for this pattern varies depending on size and option chosen, but for me 150cm is enough to make a sort sleeve version, so I save half a meter here, because I typically shorten most patterns substantially at the hem.

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Pattern adjustments

I have learnt some time ago to look at finished measurements chart at the same time as sizing chart to establish which size to cut out that would be best fit for my body. By doing this you will have a better idea if the pattern comes with a lot of ease or is it rather closer to the body, something this is cannot be clear based on a pattern lines or a picture.

Normally I would go with a bust measurement to pick a size and grade it from there, however for this pattern I chose my size based on my hip circumstance. Why did you do that Monika, you may ask… well…as this dress is sewn with a stretchy fabric it is more forgiving in comparison with woven materials, plus most of the time patterns that requires jersey type fabric would come with negative ease, meaning the pattern circumstances are smaller then your actual body. By looking at Heather’s finished measurements it can be seen that there is no ease at the bust, but there is a lot of extra fabric around the waist and hip areas. I decided to try size 16 which still gave me plenty of space to move and graded up at the bust. This was not difficult to do as the pattern comes with a princess type lines.

I had moved the waist up by 3 cm as I always do and at the same time did a sway back alteration on the pattern pieces to reduce the bulk of fabric that gathered above my bum. I pinched another 2 cm at the center back going to nothing at the side seam ( had to temporary tape it in place both back panels together).

Next I shortened the hem by 14 cm, but since doing my first version I had lengthen it again by 3 cm, so it reaches my knees.

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My first version comes with a 3/4 sleeves. I had tried a full length first, but did not like it on me. Since then I like the short sleeve best, but had to add some circumstances around the sleeve hem as it was tighter then I would prefer. I read that few people identified this problem too, which was not the case when making Molly top for me. I guess I will have to double check other Sew Over It designs in the future.

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Cutting and Sewing

Pattern comes with 15mm seam allowance which normally ( for patterns with stretchy fabric) I trim it down to about 8 to 10 mm so I can do the seams on my over-locker. This is not the best idea for this pattern, because Heather comes with in seam pockets ( which are awesome), and it would be very difficult to sew it with precision. Pattern instruction attached are very clear and easy to follow, which at this point I do not even look at 😉 It takes me about 40 mins to cut it out and 3 hours 30 minutes to complete sewing and pressing. It is not a speedy make, but anything that can be done in one sitting is an added bonus. I like to use a twin needle to finish the hems and top-stitch around the neckline.  I had realized that the neckband included in the pattern needs to by adjusted each time depending on a percentage of stretch in the fabric, so I cut it a bit longer and play with it to ensure I have enough. In general the more stretch the fabric has the shorter the neckband.

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~Heather is a must have dress, so do not waste any more time and start sewing!~

Monika xxx

 

 

 

10 Sewing projects that will bust my growing fabric scraps collection

After years of sewing I managed to accumulate not only a small fabric stash, but equally small (big) fabric scraps stash that needs to be take care of fast! I do not like to get rid of any leftover pieces as I never know when will I need them….but let’s be honest here….I do forget about it as soon as I finish my latest make. There are so many small projects that I really want to sew at the same time use some of the chunks of material reducing their amount substantially and making space for some more…..just kidding….maybe 😉

For a while now I want to make a full size quilt, but it seams like a giant project, that I simply do not have time for. But the longer I think about it,  the more I want it!!! I see so many beautiful quilt patterns and most of them are made of small pieces that would be ideal to bust that scrap stash, so I had decided to finally pick up one design ( for beginner quilter) and simply start cutting the pieces and slowly make my first quilt. I had to convince myself that it is OK to do it in stages instead from start to finish allowing me to make other projects in between. Great idea Monika!!!

Photo: http://www.quiltylove.com/expanding-stars-quilt-pattern-kona-solids-one/

To start my quilting journey it could be easier to make a smaller version first and make a set of pillowcases.

Photo: http://www.sameliasmum.com

Sewing machine cover is another sewing project I have on my to do list. One of the reasons I want to make it is to simply protect my sewing machine and serger, but other also I think it just looks so lovely and would make my sewing corner even more colourful.

Photo: http://www.iseestarsquilting.com/diy-sewing-machine-cover/

 

My laptop also needs a cover sleeve. Why spend money in the shop on a boring case if I can make it exactly as I want it to be? Right?

Cute Laptop Case
Photo: http://www.crazylittleprojects.com/laptop-bag-pattern/

What about a camera bag? yes,yes,yes….. I can see how my leftover bundle is getting smaller and smaller….

Photo: http://www.sewserendipity.com/media-frenzy-pdf-booklet/?utm_medium=Social&utm_source=Pinterest

The next scrap busting project is very small but is selfless one! Eye-mask for my partner that I make it on a regular basis and have fun by making it look different each time. I might do some embroidery on the next one too.

Photo: http://www.bloglovin.com/blogs/tilly-buttons-2258948/how-to-make-an-eye-mask-free-pattern-4457030847

 

Oven gloves that are shaped like hearts…what??? That is so cute! Great for any home cook!

 

Tutorial: Heart shaped oven mitt
Photo: http://www.sewing.craftgossip.com

Quilted tote can be used not only as a  shopping bag, but a storage for a bits and bobs or simply as a piece of decor to brighten the room.

Cute Purple Quilted Tote / Handbag by LaceyAccents on Etsy by darlene
Photo: https://indulgy.com

I am a bit old fashioned and still love to hold and read a book. Don’t get me wrong audio books are great (specially on a busy London Underground ) but there is something special and tangible in holding a book. Most of the time I use a photo or piece of paper to mark the page I am currently on , but why not transform the smallest snippets of fabric into a beautiful bookmark?! This is such an easy and begginer friendly project. Also could be good to use some of my ribbons that I do not know what to do with.

 

bookmarks scrap fabric
Photo: http://www.thecraftymummy.com/2012/10/fabric-scrap-bookmarks/

And last, but certainly not least a  pouch. It’s small and cute and I can play with designs and colours on smaller scale. I think this is the best project to get me started busting my scrap stash and learning quilting.

Photo: http://www.free-tutorial.net/2017/09/patchwork-zipper-pouch-tutorial.html

~do you have any fun ideas to use all your fabric leftovers?

Monika xxx