Sew Over It – Molly top

Molly top

Sew Over It…..I am sooooo NOT over it !!!

It is my first Sew Over It pattern make and I must say it is amazing. Sew Over It is a London based pattern company with amazing selection of patterns that also sell a large variety of fabrics online and in their brick-and-mortar shops. It is a pride and joy of a lovely Lisa Comfort, who I follow on Instagram and YouTube.

Molly top/dress is available as a PDF pattern, which can be found in Lisa’s first bookΒ  Β “My Capsule Wardrobe. City Break”

My Capsule Wardrobe: City Break eBook by Lisa Comfort | Sew Over It

This eBook contains five different patterns, that you can mix and match to create relaxed and comfortable to wear outfits while exploring unknown….or do what I do, and wear it to work , shop, cinema…etc…you get where I am going with it πŸ™‚

It is such an easy and fun make! I absolutely adore this pattern and will make many more in the future. So far I have made 3 versions and each one is perfect ( well not quite, but who is pointing fingers?)

I will start with my latest make as I am the most proud of it. I used Jersey fabric that I bought from Fabric Land. You may re-call I told you about it in my Visit to Kingston post. When I looked at it I immediately knew this will become a Molly top.

mollytop1

I really like how it fits, and I did not have to do many adjustments to the pattern apart from shortening the hem and sleeves. I cut 5 cm at the bottom hem following the curve, and took 3 cm of the sleeve length.

20180212_111533[1]

I took time to ensure my twin-needle stitch is as nice as possible, and I am pleased with the result. It is by far the best neckband I have ever made. So proud of myself.

20180212_140946[1]

What drew my attention to Molly top was the black and white stripes on Lisa’s sample, so my first top had to be similar hihihi

Molly vol.1 is not perfect, however I still wear it at least once a week. I had a problem with my serger and had to do it all on my regular sewing machine. Overall it was not a problem, till I had to finished off all hems. I broke me twin needle…the only one I had 😦

20180212_221628[1]

Monika, did you hear about stripe matching??? yes, yes, I did…This is my work at its best, but do not fear….practice makes perfect….or at least better πŸ™‚20180221_075000[1].jpg

This is the result of me using a zig zag stitch. Looks awful, but I do not allow anybody to see it up close hihihi

20180212_221647[1]

Molly vol.2 looks much better already….. stripe matching improved, twin-needle hemming done.

I had to do something different to entertain myself, so I opted for a slightly raised neck and copied a band stripe directions from Lisa. I cropped sleeves by 4 cm too.

This fabric color is more vibrant so I get noticed faster hihih

20180212_221510[1]

20180212_221525[1]

20180221_075013[1]

Final thoughts

Molly pattern is perfect for beginners, or if you are busy and have little time to sew. It takes couple of hours to put together and you are ready to go.Β  I really like how Lisa illustrate each step in her book with a clear instructions and I cannot wait to make more of her designs……Little advice, if you planning to do it on a serger (like me) then make your life easier and trim the seam allowance according to your machine settings.

20180209_102024[1]

Which one is your favorite?

~Monika~

Tilly and the buttons -Cleo dress

Cleo Pinafore

Guess what I have made????

You cannot?…ohhh let me tell you !!!!

I have made not one, but TWOΒ Cleo Dresses from Tilly and The Buttons. WHAT??!!?!? Monika are you crazy??? Nope, just in love with this pattern!!!!

Some weeks ago I told you already how much I adore Tilly’s style, her book “Love at first stitch” is amazing, however I had Cleo pattern for a while now, so I thought it should be easier make before I get my hands dirty with a Mimi blouse….check my previous post if you are lost.

Cleo….hmmmm where do I start???

I admired this dress for a while, watching endless samples that other people made and day dreaming about the time when I will have one in my wardrobe. This time is finally here πŸ™‚

This is the first time, in a very long time, when I DID NOT have to make any pattern adjustments. OK, when I say none, I mean like a major pattern adjustments, I still had to shorten the hem hihih….I am short, remember? I have to shorten everything!

The pattern gives you option between two dress lengths-shorter (knee length) or longer one with a split in the front. Also, there is a selection of different pocket placements in the front and on the back.

Β  I decided to cut size 6 based on my hip measurement alone. My waist measurement was closer to size 8, however as the pattern around this area is looser I thought ignoring it would be acceptable. And, I was right!

Cleo Dress vol.1

20180212_141634[1]My first Cleo was made from corduroy fabric I had in my stash for a while. I followed the pattern instruction exactly ( as expected Tilly’s pattern offers clear step by step instruction with pictures for easy reference when in doubt), and I did not have any problems. I’ve made the shorter version, which had to shorten further by about 7cm. Other then that, it is straight from the pocket.

20180212_141852[1]I only sewn one pocket, but I took my time to ensure my top-stitching looks nice.

The dress has interfacing all around for a clear finish, which is great. I did not top-stitch it, because it would not be that visible on this fabric, hence only hand stitched it in couple of places to make sure it will not roll out once I am wearing it. It worked pretty well.

20180212_142022[1]

Cleo dress vol.2

I wore my first Cleo to work so many times in the last couple of weeks,and got so many compliments on it, so I HAD to make another version.

This time I wanted to be more adventurous and I hacked the pattern to make pockets that are not top-stitched, but “inside” the dress, similar style that are found inside a trousers.

I have made the same size, but this time I went with a cotton fabric with some floral print, that caught my eye in the fabric shop (it is from Fabric Textiles on Goldhawk Road in London).

 

20180212_113045[1]

Look at this happy face πŸ™‚20180203_200344[1]

It took me a while to figure out how I need to hack the pattern that will give me the desired effect, but it was time well spent. I am absolutely thrilled with the result!!! Cleo vol.2 is also fully lined as Cleo vol.1 keep sticking to my tights when I walk.

Also, I put a snaps here, because I did not have buckles, but I think it works nicely anyway.

20180209_090244[1]

I wore it once already and it is so comfy.

Pattern hack

This post will be a little longer as I have promised on Instagram that I will write a blog on how I have done the pattern for this pocket…keep reading…

20180212_185906[1]

This is how my pattern look like…you can see how many times I was changing my mind…so to make it more clear for you I made it again on a mini version of the pattern.

The following are the steps I took to create this pocket:

1.Copy FRONT dress pattern (I have done without the seam allowance here)-unless you want to ruin your original one – which I am guessing you do not πŸ™‚

20180212_185734[1]

2.Choose a placement of the pocket opening. This is up to you. I put on my first Cleo and marked where I like my pockets to be. The line shape is also your choice. I am thinking to do a curved pocket opening next time πŸ˜‰20180212_190333[1]

3.Next, draw a shape and size of your new pocket. You can decide how deep it is.20180212_190801[1]4.Take your tracing wheel and TWO sheets of paper-Trace of all new lines, including pocket shape. If you do not have a tracing wheel, just copy the style lines and pocket lines onto a clear paper.20180212_190856[1]

20180212_191033[1]5.Now we will make the top pocket pattern-just draw a lines around the curve of the pocket and its opening. Add seam allowance (orange pen) and markings (purple pen).

 

20180212_1920021-e1518470198940.jpg6.The second pattern is bottom part of the pocket (visible part of the front)-add seam allowance and markings.20180212_1919581.jpg

7.Cut out your pattern pieces – and we are done πŸ™‚

20180212_192214[1]

8.Nearly forgot!!!….Remember to transfer the grain line onto your new pattern pieces πŸ˜‰

That is it! Not that difficult once you know what to do hihi

Let me know if you need guiding on construction.

~Let’s hack and have fun~