Custom Pleated Pocket Pattern: Easy Guide for Beginners

A pleated patch pocket is a great way to add something a little more interesting than a simple slip pocket. I’ve been using plain slip pockets in most of my bag patterns for ages, but recently, I’ve fallen in love with pleated ones. They’re easy to draft, practical, and give you that extra bit of room inside the pocket—which is always a win! In this post, I’ll show you how to create a custom template so you can adjust the size to fit any bag you like.

In the next post, we will sew it together! CLICK HERE to check it out.

What You’ll Need

Before we start drafting the pocket, here’s a quick list of what you’ll need. Nothing fancy—just a few basic tools you probably already have at home:

• Paper (printer paper, pattern paper, or whatever you like to draft with)
• A straight ruler
• A pencil (I prefer to use a mechanical pencil.)
• An eraser
• A pencil sharpener (nothing worse than a blunt pencil halfway through!)
• Paper scissors
• Glue stick or clear sticky tape

Once you’ve gathered everything, you’re all set to start drafting your template. Let’s dive in!

The Anatomy of a Pleat

Before we get into the drafting steps, let’s break down how the pleat works. Since this pocket has a pleat on each side, it’s helpful to understand the different parts so you can adjust the size and fit to suit your design.

Pleat depth is the key measurement that determines how much extra room your pocket will have once the pleats are folded in. It’s the distance between the inside fold and the outside fold of the pleat.

The bigger the pleat depth, the wider the pocket opening, which means more space inside the pocket. So, if you want a roomier pocket, just increase the pleat depth when drafting your template.

The outside fold is the visible edge of the pleat on the front of the pocket.

The inside fold is the part of the pleat that’s hidden inside, folded towards the centre of the pocket. It sits beneath the outside fold and helps create the pleat’s shape.

How to Create a Custom Pleated Patch Pocket Template

Creating your own custom pleated patch pocket template is a fun and easy way to add a personalised touch to your handmade bags. In this step-by-step guide, I’ll show you how to draft a template that’s the perfect size for any bag you’re working on. Whether making a small crossbody or a larger tote, this simple method will help you create a pocket that fits just right and adds extra style and functionality.

Step 1: Decide on the Finished Pocket Size

Before you start drafting, think about how big you want your pocket to be once it’s sewn onto your bag. This means deciding on the finished width and height of the pocket—not including pleats or seam allowances just yet.

Ask yourself: What will this pocket be used for?

Will it hold your phone? A small notebook? Or is it just a handy spot to pop in a few bits and bobs? Once you know what needs to fit inside, choosing a size that makes sense is much easier.

Let’s say you want your finished pocket to measure 20 cm (8″) wide by 15 cm (6″) tall—that’s the size you’ll start with.

Once you stitch the pocket to your bag, the topstitching will reduce the usable space. So, I recommend making the pocket slightly wider and taller than your intended size to allow for that.

Now that you’ve decided on the finished size of your pocket, draw a rectangle using those measurements.

Step 2: Mark the Outside Folds

Next, you’ll need to mark where the outside folds of your pleats will go. These marks show where the pleats will begin to fold inwards. I usually place mine about 1 cm (or 3/8″) in from each side edge, but feel free to move them slightly closer to the centre if you want a different look. Just make sure both sides are even.

These marks are the first guide lines for your pleats, so take your time to get them nice and straight.

Step 3: Choose Your Pleat Depth

Now, it’s time to decide how deep you want your pleats.

The larger the pleat, the roomier your pocket will be—but there’s a little trade-off. A deeper pleat means the top edge of the pocket can become a bit looser or more drapey, especially if you’re using soft fabric. To avoid that floppy look, I recommend either stabilising the fabric with some interfacing, or adding a simple closure like Velcro or a magnetic snap to keep the top edge neat and secure.

So, consider the look you want and how the pocket will be used, and pick a pleat depth that works for you. In this example, I’m making my pleats 2 cm (3/4″) deep, which adds a nice bit of volume without making the top edge too loose.

Step 4: Add the Pleats to Your Template

Now it’s time to add the pleats to your pocket template. I like to use the slash and spread method for this—it’s simple and works really well.

Start by cutting along the lines you marked earlier for the outside folds. Then, gently spread the pieces apart.

The space you add between each cut should be double the pleat depth, since the paper needs to fold back on itself.

So, if your pleat depth is 2 cm (3/4″), you’ll need to add 4 cm (1 1/2″) of space between each piece.

Use extra paper and a bit of glue to fill in the gaps and secure the new shape. Just make sure everything stays squared off and even on both sides—take your time lining things up so your pocket turns out symmetrical.

Step 5: Add Seam Allowance

To turn your template into a proper pattern piece, add seam allowance all the way around the pocket. I usually go with 1 cm (3/8″), but you can use whatever you’re comfortable with—just be consistent.

Step 6: Annotate your Pattern

You’re nearly there!

To make it as easy as possible for you to sew your pleated pocket later, you’ll need to annotate your pattern with a few key details.

• Start by adding notches to indicate where the pleats will be folded. I like to label them N1 and N2. N1 marks the place of the outside fold, and N2 marks the other end of the pleat (which is double the pleat depth). This will help you keep track of where each pleat should go.
• Next, add arrows to show the direction in which each pleat should be folded. This is a handy guide when you’re sewing, so you won’t get confused about which way to fold.
• Don’t forget to add a grainline. This shows you which direction to cut the fabric. The grainline should be perpendicular to the bottom edge of the pocket, unless you’re planning to sew the pocket slanted, in which case the grainline should run perpendicular to the base of your project.
• Finally, label your template. I like to add the name of the project, the pattern piece name (in this case, “Pleated Patch Pocket”), and any cutting instructions. For example, if you’re adding your pocket to the lining of a tote bag, you’ll need to cut two pieces from the lining fabric. If you want it on the exterior, you’ll need to cut once from the exterior fabric and once from the lining fabric.

Once you’ve finished annotating your pattern, it’s time to cut it out!

Catch the Replay

I recently went live on YouTube to show how to create this pleated patch pocket template. You can watch the replay anytime to see the process in action and get any additional tips.

Simply click the link below to catch up on the live session!

I love adding pleated patch pockets to my bags because they offer much more functionality and style than a simple slip pocket.

One thing that always annoyed me with regular slip pockets was that they made the bag lose its shape once I started filling it up. The flat design just couldn’t handle anything bulky, and the bag would warp. But with the added pleats, I don’t have to worry about that anymore. The pleats create extra space while still keeping the shape of the bag intact. Plus, they add a lovely design feature that gives your bag a bit of extra flair!

So, if you’re ready to add more dimension to your bags, the pleated patch pocket is the way to go!

Check out my other tutorials, like this hidden zipper pocket—another great way to customise your bags!

I’d love to see your makes! Be sure to share them inside my Facebook group or tag me @allsewpetite on social media—I’d love to see how you’re personalising your bags with this pleated patch pocket!

If you’re looking for more inspiration, check out my bag patterns, and don’t forget to join my newsletter to receive an exclusive free pattern!

And if you’re ready to take your bag-making skills to the next level, why not join my Bag Maker Community? It’s the perfect place to learn how to create your own bag patterns from scratch, get advice, and be part of a supportive community of fellow bag makers.

Stay crafty friend!