Hacking the Belt bag pattern to make a mini crossbody bag

Hello my crafty friends!!! In today’s post I am re-visiting one of my first patterns, the Belt bag pattern to create this super cute mini crossbody bag. The pattern for this project and the step by step sewing tutorial can be found in the original post, so I will only explain the elements that are new or different. I will omit making the belt loop and instead create an adjustable strap that will be attached to the bag using strap connectors. Some of the sewing steps are also amended to create a better finish.

Supplies needed

40 cm / 145 cm (14” / 57”) External fabric: quilting cotton, cork, faux leather, canvas etc.

30 cm / 60 cm (12” / 24”) Lining fabric: quilting cotton, waterproof canvas etc.

40 cm / 145 cm (14” / 57”) Lightweight fusible woven interfacing: Stayflex, SF101, Wovenfuse, G700 etc.

30 cm / 60 cm (12” / 24”) Stabilizer (optional): Decovil light, fusible fleece, fusible foam etc.

Magnetic snap closure x 1

2.5 cm (1″) swivel hook x 2, strap adjuster x 1, D-ring x2

To start the project cut all of the pattern pieces (except the belt loop).

Front: cut x1 external fabric, lining & stabilizer (optional), cut x 2 fusible interfacing

Back: cut x1 external fabric, lining & stabilizer (optional), cut x 2 fusible interfacing

Flap: cut x1 external fabric, lining & stabilizer (optional), cut x 2 fusible interfacing

Additionally, cut two pieces from the external fabric and lightweight interfacing 5cm / 6 cm (2″ / 2 1/2″) for strap connectors and 5 cm / 145 cm (2″ /57″) for the adjustable strap.

Once cut, fuse lightweight interfacing to the wrong side of the entire pattern piece first.

If you prefer more sturdy style of your bag you can cut the stabilizer such as Decovil light without 1 cm (3/8”) seam allowance to reduce the bulk at the seams and apply it to the wrong side of the external pieces.

Note: because I used a wax canvas on the external I decided to stabilized Front and Back lining pieces with Decovil light.

Sewing the bag

On the wrong side of the Strap connectors mark a line down the centre.

Fold the edges towards the line in the middle and press it flat.

Edgestitch along both folded sides.

Feed the Strap connectors through D-rings, fold in half and baste the raw short edges together. Place to one side for later.

At this point following the instruction in the original post install magnetic snap closure to the Flap and the Front pieces, sew darts (external and lining), assemble the flap, centre it along the top edge of the Back piece and baste stitch.

Next, take the Strap connectors and place them on the right side of the Back piece. Line it up on each side about 2.5 cm (1″) from the top edge. Pin and baste it together.

TIP: Sew a straight stitch back and forth to give it more strength.

Pair the external Front and Back pieces right sides together (the Flap should be sandwiched between both pieces). Line up on all sides and pin in place. Sew around all sides, except the top straight edge using 1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance. You can trim the seam allowance by half.

Repeat for the lining Front and Back pieces, however, leave at least 10 cm (4”) unstitched opening along the bottom edge. The opening will be used later to turn the bag right side out. Also, leave full seam allowance around the opening and press it open.

Turn the lining right side out and with right sides together, place it inside the main bag. Line up the side seams, pin around the top edge and sew the seam 1 cm (3/8”) from the edge.

Turn the bag right side out using the opening in the lining. To close the opening in the lining, pull it out of the bag, line up the edges at the seam and pin in place.

Topstitch the seam around the opening. Alternatively, close the opening by hand using a ladder stitch. This option is more time consuming but creates a seamless finish.