How to Add a Hidden Zipper Pocket to Any Bag

A hidden zipper pocket is one of those features that instantly makes a bag feel more professional and functional. It’s discreet and secure, giving your bag a clean, polished look while adding extra storage.

Today, I will show you exactly how to add this pocket type to any project. In my last post, I explained how to modify your favourite bag pattern to create the pattern pieces for this zipper pocket. You can find it here.

Now that your templates are ready, it’s time to put them together!

Why You’ll Love Adding a Hidden Pocket to Your Bag

Unlike a standard pocket, this one is concealed under a placket, which keeps it out of sight and gives your bag a clean, uninterrupted look. The placket hides the pocket opening and helps protect the contents inside.

The best part about this pocket is that it’s fully lined, so it looks just as tidy and professional on the inside as on the outside.

You can also customise the size and orientation of the pocket to suit your bag design. The process is the same whether you want a horizontal or vertical opening or even an angled pocket.

Another bonus? You don’t have to worry about matching your zipper to the fabric because the placket keeps it out of sight. That means you can use any zipper colour you like. Perfect if you have a stash of mismatched zippers or want to add a fun pop of colour without it showing on the outside.

Have you ever made a beautiful bag, then it rains, and everything in your pocket gets soaked? Even if you’ve used faux leather or cork, the water somehow creeps through the zipper tape and ruins everything inside. Annoying, right? (That was oddly specific. Ask me why I can relate! 😅)

This is where the placket really makes a difference.

If you’re working with waterproof or water-resistant fabrics, adding a placket over the zipper helps protect the pocket from rain. The placket acts as a barrier, covering the zipper and preventing water from seeping inside. So, not only does the pocket look professional, but it also keeps your essentials safe and dry—no more soggy receipts or wet phone screens!

I’ve modified my tote bag pattern to add the hidden zipper pocket to the exterior front. However, you can place it anywhere: on the front, back, side, inside, or, like me, on an exterior panel. This pocket design is super versatile and works on everything from totes to crossbody bags and even backpacks and pouches. Once you know how to sew it, you’ll want to add this pocket to all your future bag-making projects. Not even kidding!

What You’ll Need to Make the Pocket

Before we dive into sewing, let’s gather everything you’ll need to make the pocket. Here’s what you’ll need to get started:

• Fabric for the exterior: This is the main fabric for your bag.
• Fabric for the lining: You’ll use this for the pocket lining.
• Zipper: Pick any colour that catches your eye! Just make sure it’s the right size. If you’ve modified your pattern for a #5 zipper, stick with that, or the pocket might end up a different size than intended.
• Fabric scissors or rotary cutter: To cut the fabric.
• Ruler and fabric pen: This is for marking and measuring your fabric.
• Iron: We’ll need this to press seams and keep everything neat.
• Sewing machine, needle, thread, pins, etc.

Once you’ve got everything together, cut out the entire project like you would for the original pattern, except for the panel where you’ll add the pocket. For the pocket itself, cut:

• 1 pocket from both your exterior fabric and lining fabric.
• 1 pocket lining from your lining fabric.
• 1 top panel from the exterior fabric.

And that’s it! You’re ready to go!

How to Sew a Concealed Zipper Pocket

Alright, now that we’ve got everything prepped, it’s time to start sewing! Don’t worry, I’ll walk you through each step, and I’ve included plenty of photos to help you along the way. We’ll take it nice and slow, so whether you’re a confident sewer or starting out, you can follow along without a hitch.

Step 1: Attach the Zipper to the External Pocket

First, grab your zipper and place it right side down on top of the external pocket piece, lining up the top edges. Pin or clip it in place to keep it from shifting. Now, baste along the top edge about 2 mm (1/8″) from the edge using a long stitch. This helps hold the zipper in place and makes it easier to sew the final seam neatly.

Step 2: Attach the Lining to the External Pocket

Now, place your lining on top of the external piece, right sides facing each other, with the zipper sandwiched in between.

Line up the top edges and pin everything in place to keep it secure.

Next, sew along the top edge through all the layers using the correct seam allowance (which you added when modifying the pattern). Take your time here to keep the stitching nice and straight. This is the part that really sets the foundation for a clean, professional-looking pocket!

Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end to lock your stitches.

Step 3: Flip, Press, and Topstitch

Once you’ve sewn the seam, flip the pocket pieces away from the zipper so that the wrong sides are together. Give the seam a good press to make it nice and flat.

Now, topstitch along the finished seam, about 2–5 mm (⅛” – 1/4″) from the edge. This helps keep the fabric in place and gives your pocket a clean, professional look. Plus, it stops the lining from getting caught in the zipper when you open and close it.

Step 4: Attach the Pocket Lining

Place your pocket lining behind the pocket, making sure the right sides of the lining pieces face each other. Line up all the edges, pin everything in place, and then baste around all sides of the pocket.

This will help keep everything secure as you move to the next steps.

Step 5: Fold the Top Panel to Create the Placket

Set the pocket aside for a moment and grab your top panel.

Fold the bottom edge towards the wrong side of the fabric along the placket line you marked earlier on your pattern.

This fold will create the placket that will conceal the zipper. Make sure the fold is crisp and straight for a clean finish. Press it well to keep everything in place.

Step 6: Attach the Top Panel to the Pocket

Now, place the top panel on top of the pocket, right sides together. Unfold the placket you just pressed, align it with the top of the pocket and baste it together.

Step 7: Topstitch the Placket

Refold the placket over the zipper and topstitch along the edge of the zipper to secure the placket in place. This will keep everything neat and ensure the placket covers the zipper nicely, giving you that sleek, hidden zipper pocket look.

Next you can complete the rest of your project as per the original pattern instructions.

Whether you’re putting together a tote, crossbody bag, or any other design, just follow the remaining steps, and you’ll have a beautifully finished bag with a functional and stylish hidden zipper pocket.

Detailed Video Walkthrough

If you like to follow along with a video, I’ve got you covered! I created a detailed video tutorial on my YouTube channel that takes you through each step of the process. In the video, you’ll see exactly how to sew the hidden zipper pocket into any bag, with clear visuals of each step to help guide you along. Whether you’re new to adding pockets or need extra help, this video will walk you through the entire process from start to finish.

Check it out and follow along at your own pace!

And that’s it – your hidden zipper pocket is now all stitched up and ready to go! This pocket design is a great way to add a stylish, functional feature to any bag. I’m sure it will take your creations to the next level, and I can’t wait to see how you incorporate it into your own projects!

I’d love to see how your creations turn out, so don’t forget to tag me @allsewpetite on social media or share your makes in my Facebook group. It’s always a joy to see what you create and how you bring these tutorials to life in your own unique way!

If you want to learn how to create custom bag patterns from scratch, join my new membership — the Bag Maker Community! It’s a fantastic space where we dive deeper into bag-making and pattern drafting, with plenty of resources, support, and inspiration.

And, of course, if you have any questions, feel free to leave them in the comments below. I’m always happy to help!

Stay crafty, friend!