Add a Pleated Patch Pocket to Any Bag: Beginner-Friendly Sewing Tutorial

Let’s talk about the pleated patch pocket. It’s honestly one of the easiest pockets to add to a handmade bag.

You know what used to drive me mad? Those simple flat slip pockets. As soon as I popped anything slightly bulky inside—like my phone, a small notebook, or even a bunch of keys—the whole side of the bag would warp out of shape. It just didn’t look right. That’s exactly why I love a pleated patch pocket instead. With a pleat on each side, the pocket expands to fit your stuff without pulling on the bag. It’s such a clever little upgrade!

In my last blog post, I showed you how to create a custom template for this type of pocket, so you can personalise it to fit your needs. Today, we’re moving on to the fun part—sewing it! I’ll walk you through the entire process step by step, so whether you’re adding it to a tote, backpack, or pouch, you’ll know exactly what to do.

What You’ll Need to Sew a Pleated Patch Pocket

Before we dive into sewing, let’s gather all the supplies you’ll need to make your pocket. Here’s a quick list:

• Pocket Template – You’ll need your custom template to cut out the pocket pieces.
• Fabric – I’m adding my pocket to the interior of my tote bag, so I’m using lining fabric. If you’re adding the pocket to the exterior of your bag, you’ll need both exterior and lining fabric.
• Fabric Scissors or Rotary Cutter – To cut out your fabric pieces. A rotary cutter and mat will give you nice, clean cuts, but fabric scissors work just as well!
• Pins or Wonder Clips – These will help hold everything in place while you sew. Wonder clips are especially great for holding thicker fabrics.
• Fabric Marker or Chalk – Since we’re marking the right side of the fabric, make sure to use something that you can easily remove, like fabric chalk or an erasable marker. This way, you won’t have any permanent markings once you’re done sewing!
• Ruler – A ruler is essential for marking the pleat lines straight and even.
• Thread, Needle, and Sewing Machine – Of course, you’ll need these to sew everything together!

Once you’ve gathered everything, it’s time to cut out the fabric. Cut two pieces from your lining fabric to make a single pocket for the bag’s interior.

If you’re adding the pocket to the outside of your bag, you’ll need to cut one piece each from the external fabric and the lining fabric.

The fabric you choose will make a big difference in how sturdy your pleated patch pocket turns out. If you’re using a lightweight fabric like quilting cotton, I recommend adding a layer of woven interfacing to give it a bit more body. This helps the pocket hold its shape better, especially if it’s going to get a lot of use. And if you’re making a larger pocket with deeper pleats, it might be worth stabilising the fabric even more to stop the top edge from getting too droopy.

How To Add a Pleated Patch Pocket to Your Bag

Step 1: Mark the Pleat Lines

Start by marking the placement of the notches or pleat lines on the right side of one of your pocket pieces. These markings will help you fold the pleats accurately later on. Use tailor’s chalk or an erasable fabric pen. Make sure to test it on a scrap of fabric first to be sure it comes off easily.

If you’re making an external pleated patch pocket, transfer all those markings onto your outer fabric.

Step 2: Sew the Pocket Pieces Together

Now, place both pocket pieces right sides together, lining up the edges. Use pins or Wonder Clips to hold everything in place. This will keep the fabric from shifting while you sew. If you are using fabric with a directional print, make sure your pieces are aligned correctly.

Before you start sewing, mark a couple of notches along the bottom edge of the pocket to indicate the opening you’ll leave for turning the pocket right side out. I also like to draw stitching lines at each corner, which helps me know exactly when to pivot the fabric at the machine.

TIP: For neat corners, sew a diagonal stitch or two at each corner. This makes them look crisp and clean when you turn the pocket out!

Now, sew around the pocket, leaving a large opening along the bottom edge.

Once you’ve sewn around the edges, trim down the seam allowance to reduce bulk, especially around the corners, so they turn out nice and sharp. I recommend leaving the full seam allowance along the opening you left at the bottom. It makes it easier to fold in the edges neatly when you close it up later.

Now, use the opening at the bottom to gently turn the pocket right side out. Take your time here so you don’t stretch the fabric or distort the seams. Use a point turner, chopstick or the end of a pen to push out the corners nicely.

Give the pocket a good press, making sure the edges are crisp and the opening is folded in neatly.

Next, topstitch about 2 mm (1/8″) from the top edge. Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end to keep the stitches in place. Take your time to sew evenly and maintain that 2 mm (1/8″) distance for a professional finish.

Step 3: Create the Pleats

Now it’s time to form the pleats. Start by folding the pocket along the pleat lines or notches #1 (these are the ones further away from the side edges). Fold each side of the pocket towards the back—this will create little wings behind the pocket, which give it that extra space inside.

Once both sides are folded, secure them with pins or clips to stop them from shifting.

Then, sew along each fold, about 2 mm (1/8″) from the edge. This will keep the pleats nice and crisp. Don’t forget to backstitch at each end to lock the stitches in place.

Next, take each folded edge and bring it in to meet the pleat line #2. This will form the full pleat shape on each side of the pocket. Once everything is aligned nicely, press the pleats flat with an iron to help them hold their shape. A bit of steam works wonders here, especially if you’re working with thicker fabric.

If you can’t press the fabric, you can topstitch along the inside fold to keep the pleats in place.

Step 4: Attach the Pocket to the Bag

Now that the pocket is prepped, it’s time to add it to your bag!

Start by placing the pocket on the right side of the main panel, positioning it where you want it to sit. For my tote, I’m adding the pocket in the centre of the front lining. To avoid drawing a line, I like to use a large ruler to find the centre of the panel.

Once you’re happy with the position, pin the pocket securely to the fabric.

Now, sew the pocket to the bag along the sides and the bottom edge, keeping a consistent seam allowance of 2 mm (1/8″). Be sure to backstitch at each end to secure your stitching.

Optional: Sew a small triangle or install a rivet to anchor the pocket at the top corners and add extra durability or flair!

Prefer to Watch? Follow the Video Tutorial

I filmed a full step-by-step video tutorial showing you exactly how to sew this pleated patch pocket from start to finish. You can watch it over on my YouTube channel whenever it suits you. It’s the perfect way to see how everything comes together, especially if you’re making this pocket for the first time. Click the link below to watch now! ⬇️

I’d love to see your makes! Pop into my Facebook group and share your creations, or tag me @allsewpetite on social media—I always love seeing how you’re personalising your bags with this pleated patch pocket!

If you’re looking for more inspiration, check out my sewing patterns, and don’t forget to join my newsletter to receive an exclusive free pattern!

And if you’re ready to level up your bag-making skills, check out my mini online course: Bag-making Basics: Mastering Pockets. It’s packed with easy-to-follow lessons to help you get confident with all sorts of pocket styles. Whether you’re still learning or want to improve your technique, it’s a great place to start.

Stay crafty friend!