Tilly and the buttons -Cleo dress pocket hack

Cleo Pinafore

Guess what I have made????

You cannot?… Ohhh let me tell you !!!!

I have made not one but TWO Cleo Dresses from Tilly and The Buttons. WHAT??!!?!? Monika, are you crazy??? Nope, just in love with this pattern!!!!

Some weeks ago, I told you already how much I adore Tilly’s style. Her book “Love at First Stitch” is amazing. However, I have had the Cleo pattern for a while now, so I thought it should be easier to make before I get my hands dirty with a Mimi blouse. Check my previous post if you are lost.

Cleo….hmmmm, where do I start???

I admired this dress for a while, watching endless samples that other people made and daydreaming about the time when I would have one in my wardrobe. This time is finally here 🙂

This is the first time in a very long time that I DID NOT have to make any pattern adjustments. OK, when I say none, I mean a major pattern adjustment; I still had to shorten the hem hihih…. I am short, remember? I have to shorten everything!

The pattern gives you an option between two dress lengths-shorter (knee length) or longer one with a split in the front. Also, there is a selection of different pocket placements on the front and on the back.

 I decided to cut size 6 based on my hip measurement alone. My waist measurement was closer to size 8, however as the pattern around this area is looser I thought ignoring it would be acceptable. And I was right!

Cleo Dress vol.1

My first Cleo was made from corduroy fabric I had in my stash for a while. I followed the pattern instructions exactly ( as expected; Tilly’s pattern offers clear step-by-step instructions with pictures for easy reference when in doubt), and I did not have any problems. I’ve made the shorter version, which had to be shortened further by about 7cm. Other than that, it is straight from the pocket.

I only sewn one pocket, but I took my time to ensure my top-stitching looks nice.

The dress has an interfacing all around for a clear finish, which is great. I did not top-stitch it, because it would not be that visible on this fabric, hence only hand stitched it in couple of places to make sure it will not roll out once I am wearing it. It worked pretty well.

Cleo dress vol.2

I wore my first Cleo to work so many times in the last couple of weeks and got so many compliments on it, so I HAD to make another version.

This time I wanted to be more adventurous and I hacked the pattern to make pockets that are not top-stitched, but “inside” the dress, similar style that are found inside a trousers.

I have made the same size, but this time I went with a cotton fabric with some floral print, that caught my eye in the fabric shop (it is from Fabric Textiles on Goldhawk Road in London).

Look at this happy face 🙂

It took me a while to figure out how I needed to hack the pattern that would give me the desired effect, but it was time well spent. I am absolutely thrilled with the result!!! Cleo vol.2 is also fully lined because Cleo vol.1 keeps sticking to my tights when I walk.

Also, I put snaps here because I did not have buckles, but I think it works nicely anyway.

I wore it once already, and it is so comfy.

Pattern hack

This post will be a little longer, as I promised on Instagram that I would write a blog on how I have done the pattern for this pocket. Keep reading…

This is how my pattern look like…you can see how many times I was changing my mind…so to make it more clear for you I made it again on a mini version of the pattern.

The following are the steps I took to create this pocket:

1. Copy FRONT dress pattern (I have done it without the seam allowance here) – unless you want to ruin your original one – which I am guessing you do not 🙂

2. Choose a placement of the pocket opening. This is up to you. I put on my first Cleo and marked where I like my pockets to be. The line shape is also your choice. I am thinking of doing a curved pocket opening next time 😉

3. Next, draw the shape and size of your new pocket. You can decide how deep it is.

4. Take your tracing wheel and TWO sheets of paper, then trace all new lines, including pocket shape. If you do not have a tracing wheel, just copy the style lines and pocket lines onto clear paper.

5. Now, we will make the top pocket pattern – just draw lines around the curve of the pocket and its opening. Add seam allowance (orange pen) and markings (purple pen).

6. The second pattern is the bottom part of the pocket (visible part of the front) – add seam allowance and markings.

7. Cut out your pattern pieces – and we are done 🙂

8. Nearly forgot!!! Remember to transfer the grain line onto your new pattern pieces 😉

That is it! Not that difficult once you know what to do hihi

Let me know if you need guidance on construction.

~ Let’s hack and have fun ~