Ever since I released the Stevie Unisex Crossbody Bag pattern, one question has popped up repeatedly: “Is there a way to make this bag without using bias binding?”
Now, I totally get it. Bias binding can be a bit of a marmite technique – you either love it or, well… not so much! Many of you have shared that binding isn’t your favourite part of bag making, and I hear you loud and clear.
So, when I decided to make this bag as a backpack (which I shared in my last post), it was the perfect opportunity to explore an alternative construction method. Today, I’ll show you how to use the birthing method instead of bias binding. This approach can be adapted to many projects with a gusset that wraps around the front and back panels – think laptop bags, boxy bags, or even pouches.
Let me show you how it works and how it compares to the traditional binding method.
Bias Binding vs. Birthing Method: What’s the Difference?
Bias Binding Method
With the original method, the external and lining pieces are basted wrong sides together so they function as one. Once assembled, each component is stitched right sides together, and the seams are finished with bias binding. This creates a neat, professional finish and adds structural support to the bag.
Birthing Method
On the other hand, the birthing method keeps the external and lining pieces separate during construction. The bag is then turned right side out through an opening in the lining seam. This eliminates the need for binding, resulting in cleaner internal seams without the added bulk.
Why Choose One Method Over the Other?
Bias Binding Method: Best for Structure and Fit
Bias binding is a classic way to finish seams, but it’s not for everyone. It can be tricky to sew, especially for beginners, and the bulk it adds can be challenging if you’re working with a domestic sewing machine.
That said, bias binding does have its perks. It keeps the bag’s lining snug, prevents sagging, and adds structure to the seams—almost like a skeleton for the bag.
This method is especially great if you’re using thinner fabrics or want a polished, professional finish.
Birthing Method: Best for Ease and Thicker Fabrics
For those who find binding a challenge or use a domestic machine, the birthing method offers a smoother sewing experience. You’ll deal with less seam bulk because the external and lining pieces are sewn separately, making it easier to sew thicker fabrics. However, if you go this route, you’ll need to stabilize your fabrics well to ensure your bag keeps its shape.
Pro Tip: If you’re worried about losing structure with the birthing method, consider adding piping to reinforce the seams.
How to Adapt the Stevie Bag Pattern for the Birthing Method
The best part? You don’t need to change the pattern! The steps for cutting and sewing the front, back, and gusset pieces remain the same. Add all the pockets, handle, and strap connectors as per the original instructions. The difference lies in how you construct the external and lining pieces and join them together.
To help you every step of the way, I’ve created a detailed video tutorial that explains exactly how to make the Stevie bag using the birthing method. You’ll see how the external and lining pieces come together to create a professional finish—all without needing bias binding!
Whether you love the bias binding method for its structure and support or prefer the birthing method for its simplicity and ease, both techniques will help you create a stunning and functional bag. The choice is yours, and now you have two great options to bring your vision to life!
If you’ve been hesitant to try the pattern because of the binding, I hope this alternative approach encourages you to give it a go! It’s beginner-friendly, less bulky, and ideal for those working on a domestic sewing machine.
Let me know your preferred method in the comments below!
Don’t forget to tag me on social media @allsewpetite —I love seeing your beautiful work and celebrating your sewing journey.
Stay crafty friend!
